Leather is a material created through the tanning of hides and skins of animals, primarily cattlehide. Tanning is the process of converting Putrescible skin into non-putrescible Leather, usually with Tannin, an Acidic Chemical compound Rawhide is a hide or animal skin that has not been exposed to Tanning. The skin is the outer covering of living tissue of an animal (or plant Cattle, colloquially referred to as cows, are domesticated Ungulates a member of the Subfamily Bovinae of the family The tanning process converts the putrescible skin into a durable, long-lasting and versatile natural material for various uses. Putrefaction is the decomposition of animal Proteins especially by anaerobic microorganisms, described as Putrefying bacteria.

Together with wood, leather formed the basis of much ancient technology. Wood is hard fibrous lignified structural tissue produced as secondary Xylem in the stems of Woody plants notably trees but also shrubs Technology is a broad concept that deals with a Species ' usage and knowledge of Tools and Crafts and how it affects a species' ability to control and adapt The leather industry and the fur industry are distinct industries that are differentiated by the importance of their raw materials. Fur is a body hair of any non-human Mammal, also known as the Pelage. In the leather industry the raw materials are by-products of the meat industry, with the meat having higher value than the skin. In modern English usage meat most often refers to Animal tissue used as food mostly Skeletal muscle and associated Fat, but it may also refer The fur industry uses raw materials that are higher in value than the meat and hence the meat is classified as a by-product. Taxidermy also makes use of the skin of animals, but generally the head and part of the back are used. Taxidermy ( Greek for "skin arrangement" is the art of mounting or reproducing Animals for display (e Hides and skins are also used in the manufacture of glue and gelatin. An animal glue is an Adhesive that is created by prolonged boiling of Animal Connective tissue. Gelatin (also gelatine, from French gélatine) is a translucent colourless brittle nearly tasteless solid substance, extracted from the

Contents 1 Forms of leather 1.1 Leather types 1.2 Leather from other animals 2 Leather production processes 3 Role of enzymes in leather production 4 Preservation and conditioning of leather 4.1 Leather in book binding 5 Working with leather 6 Cordwain 7 Leather in modern culture 8 Religious sensitivities to leather 9 Concern for animals and alternatives 10 See also 11 External links 12 References

Forms of leather

There are a number of processes whereby the skin of an animal can be formed into a supple, strong material commonly called leather.

• Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin (hence the name "tanning") and other ingredients found in vegetable matter, tree bark, and other such sources. Tannins are Astringent, bitter plant Polyphenols that either bind and Precipitate or shrink Proteins The astringency from the tannins is what It is supple and brown in color, with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the color of the skin. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolor, and if left to soak and then dry it will shrink and become less supple and harder. In hot water, it will shrink drastically and partly gelatinize, becoming rigid and eventually brittle. Boiled leather is an example of this where the leather has been hardened by being immersed in hot water, or in boiled wax or similar substances. Boiled leather, sometimes called cuir bouilli, was a historical construction material for Armour. Wax has traditionally referred to a substance that is secreted by Bees ( Beeswax) and used by them in constructing their Historically, it was occasionally used as armour after hardening, and it has also been used for book binding. Armour (or armor) is protective covering most commonly manufactured from metals to prevent damage from being inflicted to an individual or a vehicle through use of direct contact Bookbinding is the process of physically assembling a Book from a number of folded or unfolded sheets of Paper or other material This is the only form of leather suitable for use in leather carving or stamping.
• Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858, is tanned using chromium sulfate and other salts of chromium. Chromium (ˈkroʊmiəm is a Chemical element which has the symbol Cr and Atomic number 24 It is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. It is also known as wet-blue for its color derived from the chromium. More esoteric colors are possible using chrome tanning.
• Aldehyde-tanned leather is tanned using glutaraldehyde or oxazolidine compounds. Glutaraldehyde is a colorless liquid with a pungent odor used to sterilize medical and dental equipment Oxazolidine is a five-membered ring compound consisting of three Carbons a Nitrogen, a Hydrogen, and an Oxygen. This is the leather that most tanners refer to as wet-white leather due to its pale cream or white color. It is the main type of leather used in chrome-free leather often seen in infant's shoes and in automobiles made with chrome-free leather. Formaldehyde tanning (being phased out due to its danger to workers and the sensitivity of many people to formaldehyde) is another method of aldehyde tanning. Formaldehyde is a Chemical compound with the formula H2CO It is the simplest Aldehyde —an organic compound containing a terminal Carbonyl Brain-tanned leathers fall into this category and are exceptionally water absorbent. Brain tanned leathers are made by a labor-intensive process which uses emulsified oils, often those of animal brains. They are known for their exceptional softness and their ability to be washed. Chamois leather also falls into the category of aldehyde tanning and like brain tanning produces a highly water absorbent leather. Chamois leather is made by using oils (traditionally cod oil) that oxidise easily to produce the aldehydes that tan the leather.
• Synthetic-tanned leather is tanned using aromatic polymers such as the Novolac or Neradol types. A polymer is a large Molecule ( Macromolecule) composed of repeating Structural units typically connected by Covalent Chemical bonds The earliest commercial synthetic Resin is based on a Phenol formaldehyde resin (PF with the commercial name Bakelite, and is formed from an Elimination This leather is white in color and was invented when vegetable tannins were in short supply, i. e. during the Second World War. Melamine and other amino-functional resins fall into this category as well and they provide the filling that modern leathers often require. Urea-formaldehyde resins were also used in this tanning method until dissatisfaction about the formation of free formaldehyde was realised. Urea is an Organic compound with the Chemical formula ( N[[hydrogen H]]22 C[[oxygen O]]
• Alum-tanned leather is tanned using aluminium salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour, egg yolk, etc. WikipediaNaming Salt is a Dietary mineral composed primarily of Sodium chloride that is essential for Animal life but toxic to most land plants Proteins are large Organic compounds made of Amino acids arranged in a linear chain and joined together by Peptide bonds between the Carboxyl Purists argue that alum-tanned leather is technically "tawed" and not tanned, as the resulting material will rot in water. Very light shades of leather are possible using this process, but the resulting material is not as supple as vegetable-tanned leather.
• Rawhide is made by scraping the skin thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries. Like alum-tanning, rawhide is not technically "leather", but is usually lumped in with the other forms. Rawhide is a hide or animal skin that has not been exposed to Tanning. Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather, and is primarily found in uses such as drum heads where it does not need to flex significantly; it is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or stitching, or for making many varieties of dog chews. A drumhead is a membrane stretched over one or both of the open ends of a Drum.

Leather—usually vegetable-tanned leather—can be oiled to improve its water resistance. This supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather, with mink oil, neatsfoot oil or a similar material, keeps it supple and improves its lifespan dramatically. Mink oil is made from the thick fatty layer Minks have just under their skins thumb|Neatsfoot oil Neatsfoot oil is a yellow Oil rendered and purified from the feet (but not the hooves and Shin bones of Cattle

Leather with the hair still attached is called hair-on.

Leather types

In general, leather is sold in three forms:

• Full-Grain leather or Top-Grain is referring to the upper section of a hide that contains the epidermis or skin layer. It refers to hides that have not been sanded, buffed or snuffed(otherwise known as Corrected) in order to remove imperfections on the surface of the hide. Only the hair has been removed from the epidermis. The grain remains in its natural state which will allow the best fiber strength, resulting in greater durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort for clothing. The natural Full-Grain surface will wear better than other leather. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural "Patina" and grow more beautiful over time. The finest leather furniture and footwear are made from Full-Grain leather. For these reasons only the best raw hide are used in order to create Full-Grain or Top-Grain leather. Full grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: aniline and semi-aniline. Aniline leather is a type of leather in which high quality hides have been treated with Aniline as a Dye.

• Corrected-Grain leather is any Top-Grain leather that has had its surfaces sanded, buffed or snuffed in order to remove any imperfection on the surface due to insect bites, healed scars or brands. Top-Grain leather is often wrongly referred to as Corrected-Grain. Although Corrected-Grain leather is made from Top-Grain as soon as the surface is corrected in any way the leather is no longer referred to asTop-Grain leather. The hides used to create corrected leather are hides of inferior quality that do not meet the high standards for use in creating aniline or semi-aniline leather. The imperfections are corrected and an artificial grain applied. Most Correct leather is used to make Pigmented leather as the solid pigment helps hide the corrections or imperfections. Corrected grain leathers can mainly be bought as two finish types: semi-aniline and pigmented.

• Split leather is leather that is created from the fibrous part of the hide left once the Top-Grain of the raw hide has been separated from the hide. Split (Spalatum Ancient Greek: Aspálathos, Ασπάλαθος Spalato is the largest and most important Dalmatian city the second-largest During the splitting operation the grain and drop split are separated. The drop split can be further split (thickness allowing) into a middle split and a flesh split. In very thick hides the middle split can be separated into multiple layers until the thickness prevents further splitting. Split leather then has an artificial layer applied to the surface of the split and is embossed with a leather grain. Splits are also used to create Suede. The strongest suedes are usually made from grain splits (that have the grain completely removed) or from the flesh split that has been shaved to the correct thickness. Suede is "fuzzy" on both sides. Suede is less durable than top-grain. Suede is cheaper because many pieces of suede can be split from a single thickness of hide, whereas only one piece of top-grain can be made. However, manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede appear to be full-grain. For example, in one operation, glue is mixed with one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Latigo is one of the trade names for this product. A reversed suede is a grained leather that has been designed into the leather article with the grain facing away from the visible surface. It is not a true form of suede.

The International Union of Leather Technologists and Chemist Societies has a full glossary of leather terms that can be found at IULTCS

Other less-common leathers include:

• Buckskin or brained leather is a tanning process that uses animal brains or other fatty materials to alter the leather. Buckskin is the soft pliable porous preserved hide of an animal usually Deer, Moose or elk or even Cowhide tanned to order but potentially The resulting supple, suede-like hide is usually smoked heavily to prevent it from rotting.

• Patent leather is leather that has been given a high gloss finish. Patent leather is Leather that has been given a high gloss shiny finish The original process was developed in Newark, New Jersey, by inventor Seth Boyden in 1818. Year 1818 ( MDCCCXVIII) was a Common year starting on Thursday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian Calendar (or a Common Patent leather usually has a plastic coating.

• Shagreen is also known as Stingray skin/leather. Shagreen is a type of roughened untanned Leather, formerly made from a horse's back or that of an Onager (wild ass and typically dyed green Applications used in furniture production date as far back as the art deco period. Art Deco was a popular international design movement from 1925 until 1939 affecting the decorative arts such as Architecture, Interior design, and Industrial The word "Shagreen" originates from France and is commonly confused with a shark skin and stingray skin combination.

• Vachetta leather is used in the trimmings of luggage and handbags, popularized by Louis Vuitton. Luggage is any number of Bags cases and containers which hold a Traveller s articles during transit. In American English, a purse is a small Bag, also called a handbag or a pocketbook. Louis Vuitton Malletier, commonly referred to as Louis Vuitton ( pronounced /lwi vɥitɔ̃/ or sometimes shortened to LV, is a French luxury fashion The leather is left untreated and is therefore susceptible to water and stains. Sunlight will cause the natural leather to darken in shade, called a patina. Patina is a coating of various chemical compounds such as Oxides or Carbonates formed on the surface of metal during exposure to Weathering.

• Slink is leather made from the skin of unborn calves. It is particularly soft, and is valued for use in making gloves.

• Deer Skin is one of the toughest leathers, partially due to adaptations to their thorny and thicket filled habitats. Deerskin has been prized in many societies including indigenous Americans. Most modern deer skin is no longer procured from the wild, with "deer farms" breeding the animals specifically for the purpose of their skins. Large quantities are still tanned from wild deer hides in historic tanning towns such as Gloversville and Johnstown in upstate New York. Gloversville is a City in Fulton County, New York, that was once the hub of America's glovemaking industry Johnstown, surrounded by the Town of Johnstown, is the county seat of Fulton County, New York, USA. New York ( is a state in the Mid-Atlantic and Northeastern regions of the United States and is the nation's third most populous Deer skin is used in jackets and overcoats, professional sporting equipment such as kendo bogu, as well as high quality personal accessories like handbags and wallets. or " way of the sword " is the Japanese and South Korean martial art of sword-fighting is specially developed protective armour used in a number of Japanese martial arts most notably Kendo and Naginata. It commands a high price due to its relative rarity and proven durability.

• Nubuck is top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibers, producing a velvet-like surface. Nubuck is top-grain cattle Rawhide Leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side or outside to give a slight nap of short protein fibers producing a

There are two other descriptions of leather commonly used in specialty products, such as briefcases, wallets, and luggage.

• Belting leather is a full grain leather that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery. It is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Belting leather is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy-weight of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather.

• Nappa leather, or Napa leather, is chrome-tanned and is extremely soft and supple and is commonly found in higher quality wallets, toiletry kits, and other personal leather goods. Nappa leather or Napa leather is a full-grain Leather, typically dyed made from unsplit kid - lamb - or Sheep -skin by Tanning

The following are not 'true' leathers, but contain leather material.

• Bonded Leather , or "Reconstituted Leather", is not really a true leather but a man-made material composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers (often scrap from leather tanneries or leather workshops) bonded together with latex binders to create a look and feel similar to that of genuine leather at a fraction of the cost. Bonded leather, or reconstituted leather, is an artificial material composed of 80% to 100% Leather fibers (often waste scraps from leather tanneries or Bonded leather is not as durable as other leathers, and is recommended for use only if the product will be used infrequently. One example of bonded leather use is in Bible covers.

• Bicast leather is a man-made product that consists of a thick layer of polyurethane applied to a substrate of low-grade or reconstituted leather. Bicast leather (also known as bycast leather, split leather or PU leather) is a synthetic upholstery product consisting of a thick Polyurethane Most of the strength of bicast leather comes from the polyurethane coating. Bicast was originally made for the shoe industry and recently was adopted by the furniture industry. The original formula created by Bayer was fairly strong, but creating Bicast from the original recipe is expense. Most of the Bicast used today is created using inferior generic chemicals resulting in an inferior material. The result is a much stiffer product that tends to delaminate resulting in bubbles and cracking.

The vast majority of leather is sold according to its area. The leather is placed through pin-wheel or electronic measuring machines and its surface area is determined. The unit of measurement is square metre, square decimetre or square foot. The thickness is also important, and this is measured using a thickness gauge (the unit of measurement is millimetres, e. g. , 1. 8 mm is a standard thickness for a school shoe).

In some parts of the world top-grain thicknesses are described using weight units of ounces. Although the statement is in ounces only, it is an abbreviation of ounces per square foot. The thickness value can be obtained by the conversion:

• 1 oz/ft² = 1/64 inch (0. 4 mm)

Hence, leather described as 7 to 8 oz is 7/64 to 8/64 inches (2. 8 to 3. 2 mm) thick. The weight is usually given as a range because the inherent variability of the material makes ensuring a precise thickness very difficult. Other leather manufacturers state the thickness directly in millimetres.

Leather from other animals

Today, most leather is made of cattle skin, but many exceptions exist. Marrakesh or Marrakech ( Amazigh: Murakush, Arabic مراكش Murrakush) known as the "Red City" Cattle, colloquially referred to as cows, are domesticated Ungulates a member of the Subfamily Bovinae of the family Lamb and deer skin are used for soft leather in more expensive apparels. Deer and elk skin are widely used in work gloves and indoor shoes. Pigskin is used in apparel and on seats of saddles. A saddle is a supportive structure for a rider or other load fastened to an animal's back by a girth.

Kangaroo skin is used to make items which need to be strong but flexible, it is the material most commonly used in high quality bullwhips. A kangaroo is a Marsupial from the family Macropodidae (macropods meaning 'large foot' A bullwhip is a single-tailed whip, usually made of braided leather which was originally used as a farmer's tool for working with livestock Kangaroo leather is favored by some motorcyclists for use in Motorcycle Leathers specifically because of its lighter weight and higher abrasion resistance compared with cowhide, thus providing greater protecting in case of a fall on the roadway. MotorCycle is the title of a 1993 album by Rock band Daniel Amos, released on BAI Records. To improve Motorcycle safety many countries mandate the wearing of Protective clothing by motorcyclists especially Kangaroo leather is also used for high performance soccer footwear.

Leather made from more exotic skins has at different times in history been considered very beautiful. For this reason certain snakes and crocodiles have been hunted to near extinction. A snake is an elongate Reptile of the suborder Serpentes Like all reptiles snakes are covered in scales. A crocodile is any Species belonging to the family Crocodylidae (sometimes classified instead as the Subfamily Crocodylinae)

In the 1970s, ostrich farming for their feathers became popular, and ostrich leather became available as a side product. This article is about the Decade 1970-1979 For the Year 1970 see 1970. The Ostrich ( Struthio camelus) is a large Flightless bird native to Africa (and formerly the Middle East) There are different processes to produce different finishes for many applications, i. e. , upholstery, footwear, automotive products, accessories and clothing. Ostrich leather is considered one of the finest and most durable in the world and is currently used by many major fashion houses such as Hermès, Prada, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton. Hermès International SA, or simply Hermès ( IPA: French, American English, typical British English) is a French Prada SpA is an Italian high-fashion company (also referred to as fashion House or Label) specializing in Luxury goods for men and women The House of Gucci, better known simply as Gucci, is an Italian iconic fashion and Leather goods label Louis Vuitton Malletier, commonly referred to as Louis Vuitton ( pronounced /lwi vɥitɔ̃/ or sometimes shortened to LV, is a French luxury fashion Ostrich leather has a characteristic "goose bump" look because of the large follicles from which the feathers grew.

In Thailand, sting ray leather is used in wallets and belts in the same way as regular bovine leather. The Kingdom of Thailand (ˈtaɪlænd ราชอาณาจักรไทย, râːtɕʰa-ʔaːnaːtɕɑ̀k-tʰɑj Dasyatidae is a family of rays, cartilaginous marine Fishes related to Skates and Sharks Dasyatids are common in tropical Sting ray leather is as tough and durable as hard plastic. The leather is often dyed black and covered with tiny round bumps in the natural pattern of the back ridge of an animal. These bumps are then usually dyed white to highlight the decoration. Leather clothing is also popular in Thailand.

In the United States, bison leather has become popular. This is an article about an animal For other uses see Bison (disambiguation. It is used for gloves, jackets and some baseball gloves. It is rugged but supple and has a waxy feel.

Overall, leather comes from a variety of other sources, including the skins of cattle, hogs, goats, sheep, alligators, ostriches, kangaroos, & yaks.

There is quite a wide range of different animal leather used both for Leather garments as well as Leather Goods such as Ladies Handbags, Gents wallets, Ladies Purses, Leather Belts, File bags and other customized leather articles.

The most commonly used leather types are Cow leather, Sheep leather, Buffalo Leather and Ox leather. Of these, the most expensive is Cow leather and then Buffalo leather, Ox leather and Sheep leather respectively. The Sheep leather is quite famous for its softness and mostly used in leather garments; however due to certain restrictions of its overall size; it cannot be used for long coats and there Cow leather and Buffalo leather is widely used.

Leather production processes

Main article: Leather Production Processes

The leather manufacturing process is divided into 3 fundamental sub-processes: preparatory stages, tanning and crusting. The leather manufacturing process is divided into 3 fundamental sub-processes preparatory stages tanning and crusting All true leathers will undergo these sub-processes. A further sub-process, surface coating can be added into the leather process sequence but not all leathers receive surface treatment. It's difficult to create a list of operations that all leathers must undergo, as there are so many types of leather.

The preparatory stages are when the hide/skin is prepared for tanning. Preparatory stages may include: preservation, soaking, liming, unhairing, fleshing, splitting, reliming, deliming, bating, degreasing, frizing, bleaching, pickling and depickling. The liming operation in leather is a drum/paddle or pit based operation where four main objectives are met

Tanning is the process converts the protein of the raw hide or skin into a stable material which will not putrefy and is suitable for a wide variety of end applications. Tanning is the process of converting Putrescible skin into non-putrescible Leather, usually with Tannin, an Acidic Chemical compound The principal difference between raw hides and tanned hides is that raw hides dry out to form a hard inflexible material that when re-wetted (or wetted back) putrefy, whilst tanned material dries out to a flexible form that does not become putrid when wetted back. There is a large number of different tanning methods and materials that can be used, the choice is ultimately dependent on the end application of the leather. The most commonly used tanning material is chromium, which leaves the leather once tanned a pale blue colour (due to the chromium), this product is commonly called “wet blue”. The hides once they have finished pickling will typically be between pH of 2. 8-3. 2. At this point the hides would be loaded in a drum and immersed in a float containing the tanning liquor. The hides are allowed to soak (while the drum slowly rotates about its axle) and the tanning liquor slowly penetrates through the full substance of the hide. Regular checks will be made to see the penetration by cutting the cross section of a hide and observing the degree of penetration. Once a good even degree of penetration exists, the pH of the float is slowly raised in a process called basification. This basification process fixes the tanning material to the leather and the more tanning material fixed the higher the hydrothermal stability and increased shrinkage temperature resistance of the leather. The pH of the leather when chrome tanned would typically finish somewhere between 3. 8-4. 2.

Crusting is when the hide/skin is thinned, retanned and lubricated. Often a coloring operation is included in the crusting sub-process. The chemicals added during crusting have to be fixed in place. The culmination of the crusting sub-process is the drying and softening operations. Crusting may include the following operations: wetting back, sammying, splitting, shaving, rechroming neutralisation, retanning, dyeing, fatliquoring, filling, stuffing, stripping, whitening, fixation, setting, drying, conditioning, milling, staking and buffing.

For some leathers a surface coating is applied. Tanners refer to this as finishing. Finishing operations may include: oiling, brushing, padding, impregnation, buffing, spraying, roller coating, curtain coating, polishing, plating, embossing, ironing, ironing/combing(for hair-on)and glazing.

Role of enzymes in leather production

Enzymes like proteases, lipases and amylases have an important role in the soaking, dehairing, degreasing, and bating operations of leather manufacturing.

Proteases are the most commonly used enzymes in leather production. The enzyme used should not damage or dissolve collagen or keratin, but should be able to hydrolyse casein, elastin, albumin and globulin-like proteins, as well as non-structured proteins which are not essential for leather making. It is especially important to hydrolyse the elastin if the leather is to be limed, or treated with calcium hydroxide; if not treated properly before liming, the elastin will harden and the grain will be loose. Calcium hydroxide, traditionally called slaked lime, hydrated lime, or pickling lime, is a Chemical compound with the chemical formula This process is called bating^[1].

Lipases are used in the degreasing operation to hydrolyse fat particles embedded in the skin^[2]. .

Amylases are used to soften skin, to bring out the grain, and to impart strength and flexibility to the skin. These enzymes are rarely (if ever) used.

Preservation and conditioning of leather

The natural fibers of leather will break down with the passage of time. Acidic leathers are particularly vulnerable to red rot, which causes powdering of the surface and a change in consistency. Damage from red rot is aggravated by high temperatures and relative humidities, and is irreversible.

Exposure to long periods of low relative humidities (below 40%) can cause leather to become desiccated, irreversibly changing the fibrous structure of the leather.

Various treatments are available such as conditioners, but these are not recommended by conservators since they impregnate the structure of the leather artifact with active chemicals, are sticky, and attract stains.

Leather in book binding

Leather used in book binding has many of the same preservation needs: protection from high temperatures, high relative humidity, low relative humidity, fluctuations in relative humidity, light exposure, dust buildup, pollution, mold, and bug infestation. ^[3][4]

For books with red rot, acid-free phase boxes and/or polyester dust jackets (Dupont Mylar Type D® or ICI Mellinex 516®) are recommended to protect the leather from further handling damage and as well as to prevent the residues from getting on hands, clothes, the text block, and nearby books. ^[5]

The debate on the use of dressings for preservation of book bindings has spanned several decades as research and experimental evidence slowly accumulated. The main argument is that, done incorrectly, there are multiple disadvantages and that, done correctly, there is little to no preservation advantage. Pamphlets and guidelines give numerous downsides to dressings use, including: the dressing becoming increasingly acidic, discolor and stain the leather, oxidize (penetration and expansion of oils including displacement and weakening of fibers) and stiffen, leave a sticky surface, collect dust, wick into adjacent materials, form unstable surface spews, encourage biological deterioration and mold growth, block surface porosity, impede further treatment, wet and swell the leather, affect surface finishes, and desiccate or dry out the leather. ^[6]Meanwhile, scientific experiments have shown no great benefits. ^[7]The main authorities on the subject therefore discourage it, with a caveat for special cases done under the direction of a conservator. ^[5][6][3]

Working with leather

Main article: Leather crafting

Leather can be decorated by a variety of methods, including pyrography and beading. Leather crafting is the practice of making Leather into craft objects or works of art using shaping techniques coloring techniques or both Pyrography is the art of decorating wood or other materials with burn marks resulting from the controlled application of a heated object such as a poker. Beadwork is the art or craft of attaching Beads to one another or to cloth using a needle and thread

Cordwain

Cordwain, once a synonym to Cordovan (through Old French cordewan) meaning "from Córdoba". Shell cordovan (or cordovan) is a type of Leather commonly used in Shoemaking. Old French was the Romance Dialect continuum spoken in territories which span roughly the northern half of modern France and parts of modern Belgium ||-||-||} Córdoba ( Cordova in English is a City in Andalusia, southern Spain, and the capital of the province of Córdoba. Painted or gilded embossed leather decoration for walls, a 12th century north African style, was introduced to Spain (hence it is sometimes referred to as 'Spanish leather'). Gilding is the art of applying a thin layer of gold simulated gold or other metal to a surface Embossing is the process of creating a three-dimensional image or design in Paper and other Ductile materials Spain () or the Kingdom of Spain (Reino de España is a country located mostly in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula. Around the turn of the 15th-16th century the technique reached Flanders and Brabant in the Low Countries. The County of Flanders was a historical region in the Low Countries. The Duchy of Brabant was a historical region in the Low Countries. The Low Countries, the historical region of de Nederlanden, are the countries on low-lying land around the delta of the Rhine, Scheldt Though there were craftsmen in several cities (such as Antwerp, Brussels, Ghent), the major handicraft center for this cordwain was Mechelen, where it was mentioned as early as 1504. An artisan, also called a Craftsman, is a skilled manual worker who crafts items that may be functional or strictly decorative including furniture clothing ||-||-||-||} Antwerp ( Dutch:, French: Anvers) is a City and Municipality in Belgium and the capital of the Brussels (Bruxelles pronounced; Brussel pronounced) officially the Brussels Capital-Region, is Ghent (ˈɡɛnt Gent ʝɛnt in Dutch, Gand in French, and formerly Gaunt in English) is a City and a Handicraft, also known as craftwork or simply Craft, is a type of work where useful and decorative devices are made completely by hand or using only simple tools Mechelen ( Mechlin in English is a Dutch-speaking city and municipality in the province of Antwerp, Flanders, Belgium. Since the second half of the 18th century, this luxurious artisan product is no longer made. An artisan, also called a Craftsman, is a skilled manual worker who crafts items that may be functional or strictly decorative including furniture clothing ^[8] Cordwainer is still used to describe someone in the profession of shoemaking.

Leather in modern culture

Leather, due to its excellent abrasion and wind resistance, found a use in rugged occupations. The enduring image of a cowboy in leather chaps gave way to the leather-jacketed and leather-helmeted aviator. A cowboy is an animal Herder who tends Cattle on Ranches in North America, traditionally on horseback and often performs a multitude of When motorcycles were invented, some riders took to wearing heavy leather jackets to protect from road rash and wind blast; some also wear chaps or full leather pants to protect the lower body. Many sports still use leather to help in playing the game or protecting players: due to its flexible nature it can be formed and flexed for the occasion.

As leather can also be a metonymical term for objects made from it, the term leathering is as logical as tanning in the sense of a physical punishment (such as a severe spanking) applied with a leather whip, martinet etcetera. In Rhetoric, metonymy (mɨˈtɒnɨmi is the use of a word for a concept or object associated with the concept/object originally denoted by the word Corporal punishment is the deliberate infliction of pain intended to Punish a person or change his/her behavior Spanking is a form of Corporal punishment that generally consists of striking the Buttocks of a Child or Teenager, usually by the parents The word whip describes two basic types of tools A long stick-like device usually slightly flexible with a small bit of leather or cord called a "popper" on the The martinet is a punitive device traditionally used in France and other parts of Europe.

Leather fetishism is the name popularly used to describe a fetishistic attraction to people wearing leather, or in certain cases, to the garments themselves. Sexual fetishism, or erotic fetishism, is the Sexual attraction to materials and objects not conventionally viewed as being sexual in nature The word leather itself became synonymous with sado-masochism in the 1980s after achieving that status in homosexual jargon in the 1970s. Sadism refers to Sexual or non-sexual gratification in the infliction of Pain or humiliation upon or by another person

A number of rock groups, particularly heavy metal groups such as Judas Priest and Scorpions, are well-known for wearing leather clothing. A musical ensemble is a group of two or more Musicians who perform instrumental or vocal Music. Judas Priest are an English heavy metal band formed in 1970 in Birmingham. Scorpions are a heavy metal / Hard rock band from Hanover, Germany, probably best known for their 1980s rock anthem " Rock You Like a Leather clothing, particularly jackets, almost come as standard in the heavy metal subculture. Extreme metal bands, especially black metal bands, have extensive leather clothing, i. Extreme metal is an Umbrella term, somewhat loosely defined for a number of related heavy metal subgenres that have developed since the 1980s Black metal is an extreme subgenre of heavy metal. It often employs fast tempos shrieked vocals highly distorted guitars played with Tremolo picking, e. leather trousers, accessories etc.

In today's times, many cars and trucks come optional or standard with 'leather' seating. This can range from cheap vinyl material, found on some low cost vehicles, to Nappa leather, found on luxury car brands like Mercedes-Benz and Audi. Mercedes-Benz is a German manufacturer of luxury Automobiles Buses coaches and Trucks It is currently a division of the AUDI AG, ( Xetra: NSU commonly known as Audi (aˈʊdi is a German Automobile manufacturer which produces Audi branded cars with headquarters

Leather biodegrades slowly, e. Biodegradation is the process by which organic substances are broken down by the enzymes produced by living organisms g. a pair of leather shoes takes 25-40 years to decompose.

Religious sensitivities to leather

In countries with harmonious multi-religious environments, leather vendors are typically careful to clarify the kinds of leather used in their products. For example, leather shoes will bear a label identifying the animal from which the leather was taken. In this way, a follower of Islam would not accidentally purchase pigskin leather, and a Hindu would avoid cow leather. For other meanings including people named 'Islam' see Islam (disambiguation. A Hindu ( Devanagari: हिन्दू is an adherent of the philosophies and scriptures of Hinduism, a set of religious, Philosophical Cattle, colloquially referred to as cows, are domesticated Ungulates a member of the Subfamily Bovinae of the family

Such taboos increase the demand for religiously neutral leathers like ostrich and deer.

Judaism forbids wearing leather-soled shoes during Yom Kippur and during mourning. Yom Kippur (יוֹם כִּפּוּר ˈjɔm kiˈpur also known in English as the Day of Atonement, is the most solemn and important of the Jewish holidays Its

In muslim countries the products made in Leather were normally banned as due to the religious concerns imposed by some islamic scholars but in the mid of 20th century some eminent scholars from Muslim world have made significant efforts to bring awareness about this issue amongst the people which ultimately starts the trend of using leather products especially leather jackets, wallets, handbags and lot of other customized leather articles.

Concern for animals and alternatives

Some vegan and animal rights activists have boycotted use of all leather items, believing the practice of wearing animal hides is unnecessary and vulgar in today's society. "Animal liberation" redirects here for other uses see Animal liberation (disambiguation. Animal rights groups such as PETA have issued fact sheets calling for boycotts and encouraging use of alternative materials such as synthetic leathers produced from petro-chemicals. Artificial Leather is a fabric of finish intended to substitute for leather in fields such as Upholstery, Clothing and Fabrics, and other

Many pseudo-leather materials have been developed, allowing those who wish to wear leather-like garments to do so without actually wearing leather. One example of this is vegan microfiber, which claims to be stronger than leather when manufactured with strength in mind. Vinyl materials, Pleather, Durabuck, NuSuede, Hydrolite, and other alternatives exist, providing some features similar to leather. Artificial Leather is a fabric of finish intended to substitute for leather in fields such as Upholstery, Clothing and Fabrics, and other Drawbacks include the fact that the product is inorganic and not biodegradable along with concerns related to pollution in the production process. Biodegradation is the process by which organic substances are broken down by the enzymes produced by living organisms

See also

Types of leather

• Aniline leather,a leather treated with aniline as a dye
• Artificial leather, a fabric of finish intended to substitute for leather
• Bicast leather, a synthetic upholstery product
• Boiled leather, a historical construction material
• Bonded Leather, man-made material composed of leather fibers
• Chamois leather, leather made from the skin of the mountain antelope or Chamois
• Corinthian leather, a marketing term used by Chrysler in the 1970s
• Morocco leather, a type of sheepskin dyed red
• Nappa leather, a full-grain leather
• Ostrich leather, leather from an ostrich
• Patent leather, leather with a high gloss and shiny finish
• Pleather, a term for artificial leather
• Poromeric imitation leather, a group of synthetic leather substitutes
• Vegan leather, an artificial alternative to traditional leather

Leather fabrication

• Leather carving, a process of cutting and stamping to give a three-dimensional appearance
• Leather crafting, the practice of making leather into crafts or pieces of art
• Liming (leather processing), a process of treating leather
• British Museum leather dressing, a conservator's treatment for display items
• Tanning

Other

• Leather subculture
• Adarga, a hard leather shield
• Horse tack, various equipment and accessories worn by horses, much of which is made of leather
• Henry Burk - inventor of the alum and sumac tanning process
• Leather skirt

External links

• All About Leather
• Fish Leather Tanning

References

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