The term flapper in the 1920s referred to a "new breed" of young women who wore short skirts, bobbed their hair, listened to the new Jazz music, and flaunted their disdain for what was then considered acceptable behavior. Louise Brooks ( November 14, 1906 &ndash August 8, 1985) was an American Dancer, model, Showgirl A " bob cut " is a short Haircut in which a weighted area is left to fall between the ears and chin Jazz is an American Musical art form which originated in the beginning of the 20th century in African American communities in the Southern United States The flappers were seen as brash for wearing excessive makeup, drinking, treating sex in a casual manner, smoking, driving automobiles, and otherwise flouting conventional social and sexual norms. Casual sex refers to certain types of sexual activity outside the context of a Romantic relationship. Smoking is a practice where a substance most commonly Tobacco, is burned and the Smoke tasted or inhaled
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Origins and Etymology
Flappers had their origins in the period of liberalism, social and political turbulence, and increased transatlantic cultural exchange that followed the end of the First World War, as well as the export of African American jazz culture to Europe. Alice Joyce ( October 1, 1890 - October 9, 1955) was an actress born in Kansas City Missouri, United States Liberalism is a broad array of related ideas and theories of Government that consider individual Liberty to be the most important political goal World War I (abbreviated WWI; also known as the First World War, the Great War, and the War to End All African Americans or Black Americans are citizens or residents of the United States who have origins in any of the black populations of Africa
United Kingdom
The term flapper first appears in an early Sports Illustrated magazine (not the same magazine in print today) in a two-page spread where the flapper spread her legs. It may be in reference to a young bird flapping its wings while learning to fly, or it may derive from an earlier use in northern England of flapper to mean "teenage girl" (whose hair is not yet put up), or "prostitute". [1]
While many in the United States assumed at the time that the term flapper derived from a fashion of women wearing galoshes unbuckled so that they could show people their bodies as they walked, the term was already documented as in use in the United Kingdom as early as 1912. Galoshes (from galoches also known as gumshoes, dickersons, or overshoes, are a type of Rubber From the 1910s into the 1920s, flapper was a term for any impetuous teenage girl, often including women under 30. Only in the 1920s did the term take on the meaning of the flapper generation style and attitudes, while people continued to use the word to mean immature.
Flappers in the U. S.
United States
The first appearance of the word and image in the United States came from the popular 1920 Frances Marion movie, The Flapper, starring Olive Thomas. Mesa Verde National Park is a US National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Montezuma County, Colorado, United The United States of America —commonly referred to as the Frances Marion ( November 18, 1888 - May 12, 1973) was an American Journalist, Author, and Screenwriter The Flapper is a 1920 Silent film starring Olive Thomas. It was the first movie in the United States to portray the Flapper Olive Thomas ( October 20, 1894 &ndash September 10, 1920) was an American Silent film Actress and [2] Thomas had starred in a similar role in 1917 though it was not until The Flapper that the term was used. Her final movies were done in the flapper image. [3] Other actresses would soon build their careers on the same image making them quite popular including Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, and Joan Crawford. Clara Gordon Bow ( July 29, 1905 &ndash September 27 1965) was an American Actress and Sex symbol, who rose to fame Louise Brooks ( November 14, 1906 &ndash August 8, 1985) was an American Dancer, model, Showgirl Joan Crawford (born Lucille Fay LeSueur; ( March 23, 1905 - May 10, 1977) Crawford was signed to a motion picture [2]
In the United States, popular contempt for Prohibition was a factor. The United States of America —commonly referred to as the In the United States, the term Prohibition refers to the period from 1920 to 1933 during which the sale manufacture and transportation of alcohol for consumption With legal saloons and cabarets closed, back alley speakeasies became prolific and popular. A speakeasy was an establishment that surreptitiously sold Alcoholic beverages during the period of United States history known as Prohibition (1920-1933 This discrepancy between the law-abiding, religion-based temperance movement and the actual ubiquitous consumption of alcohol led to widespread disdain for authority. See also Prohibition, Teetotalism The Temperance Movement attempted to reduce the amount of Alcohol consumed within a community or society in Flapper independence may have its origins in the Gibson girls of the 1890s. The Gibson Girl was the personification of the feminine ideal as portrayed in the satirical pen and ink illustrated stories created by Illustrator Charles Dana Gibson Although that pre-war look does not resemble the flapper identity, their independence and feminism may have led to the flapper wise-cracking tenacity 30 years later. Feminism is a discourse that involves various movements theories, and Philosophies which are concerned with the issue of Gender difference, advocate
Writers and artists in the United States such as F. Scott Fitzgerald, John Held Jr., and Anita Loos popularized the flapper look and lifestyle through their works, and flappers came to be seen as attractive, reckless and independent. Francis Scott Key Fitzgerald (September 24 1896 – December 21 1940 was an American writer of Novels and Short stories, whose works are evocative of the John Held Jr ( January 10, 1889 &ndash March 2, 1958) was a United States illustrator one of the most famous Magazine Anita Loos ( April 26 1888 &ndash August 18 1981) was an acclaimed American Screenwriter, Playwright Among those who criticized the flapper craze was writer-critic Dorothy Parker. Dorothy Parker (August 22 1893&ndashJune 7 1967 was an American writer and poet best known for her caustic Wit, wisecracks and sharp eye for 20th century urban foibles She penned "Flappers: A Hate Song" to poke fun at the fad.
A related but alternative usage in the late 1920s was a press catch word which referred to adult women voters and how they might vote differently than men their age. A catch phrase (or catchphrase) is a phrase or expression recognized by its repeated utterance While the term flapper had multiple usages, flappers as a social group were well defined from other 1920s fads.
Behavior
Flappers went to jazz clubs at night where they danced provocatively, smoked cigarettes through long holders, sniffed cocaine (which was legal at the time) and dated. A jazz club is a venue where the primary entertainment is live Jazz. Dance (from French danser, perhaps from Frankish) is an Art form that generally refers to movement of the body usually rhythmic A cigarette ( French "small Cigar " from cigar + -ette) is a product consumed through Smoking and manufactured Cocaine ( benzoylmethyl ecgonine) is a Crystalline Tropane Alkaloid that is obtained from the leaves of the Coca plant They rode bicycles and drove cars. The bicycle, cycle, or bike is a pedal-driven, human-powered vehicle with two wheels attached to a frame, one behind They drank alcohol openly, a defiant act in the American period of Prohibition. Prohibition of alcohol, often referred to simply as prohibition, also known as Noble Experiment, refers to a Sumptuary law which prohibits Alcohol Petting became more common than in the Victorian era. In Human sexual behavior, foreplay is a set of intimate psychological and physical acts between two or more people meant to increase Sexual arousal. Culture The Victorian fascination with novelty resulted in a deep interest in the relationship between modernity and cultural continuities Petting Parties, where petting was the main attraction, became popular. In Human sexuality, making out is a sexual Euphemism of American origin dating back to at least 1949
Flappers also began taking work outside the home and challenging a 'woman's place' in society. Voting and women's rights were also practiced.
With time dance styles considered shocking, such as the Charleston, the Shimmy, the Bunny Hug and the Black Bottom were developed. The Charleston is a Dance named for the city of Charleston South Carolina. A shimmy is a Dance move in which the Body is held still except for the Shoulders which are alternated back and forth The Bunny hug was a dancing style performed by young people in the early 20th century Black Bottom refers to a Dance which became popular in the 1920s during the period known as the Flapper era
Slang
Flappers had their own slang, with terms like "snugglepup" (a man who frequents petting parties) and "barney-mugging" (sex). Norma Talmadge ( May 26, 1893 &ndash December 24, 1957) was one of the greatest film stars of the silent era Slang is the use of highly informal Words and expressions that are not considered standard in the speaker's Dialect or Language. Their dialect reflected their promiscuity and drinking habits; "I have to go see a man about a dog" often meant going to buy whiskey, and a "handcuff" or "manacle" was an engagement or wedding ring. Also reflective of their preoccupations, they had many ways to say "fantastic", such as "That's so Jake" or "That's the bee's knees," or a more popular one, "the cat's pajamas. "
Many terms still in use in modern American English slang originated as flapper slang, such as "big cheese", meaning an important person; "to bump off", meaning to murder; and "baloney", meaning nonsense. Phonology North American English regional phonology In many ways compared to English English, North American English is conservative in its Phonology. Other terms have become definitive of the Prohibition era, such as "speakeasy", meaning an illegal place to get liquor and "hooch”, describing illegal liquor.
Appearance
In addition to their irreverent behavior flappers were known for their style, which largely emerged as a result of the musical style of jazz and the popularization of dancing that accompanied it. Called garçonne in French ("boy" with a feminine suffix), flapper style made them look young and boyish. French ( français,) is a Romance language spoken around the world by 118 million people as a native language and by about 180 to 260 million people Short hair, flattened breasts, and small waists accentuated the look.
Despite all the scandal flappers generated, their look became fashionable in a toned-down form among even respectable older women. A scandal is a widely Publicized incident that involves Allegations of wrongdoing, disgrace or moral outrage Most significantly, the flappers removed the corset from female fashion, raised skirt and gown hemlines and popularized short hair for women. Among the actresses most closely identified with the style were Olive Thomas, Dorothy Mackaill, Alice White, Bebe Daniels, Billie Dove, Helen Kane, Joan Crawford, Leatrice Joy, Norma Shearer, Laura La Plante, Norma Talmadge, Clara Bow, Louise Brooks, and Colleen Moore. Olive Thomas ( October 20, 1894 &ndash September 10, 1920) was an American Silent film Actress and Dorothy Mackaill ( March 4, 1903 - August 12, 1990) was a British -born American actress most notably of the Silent Alice White ( August 24, 1904 - February 19, 1983) was an American Film actress. Bebe Daniels ( January 14, 1901 - March 16, 1971) was an American actress. Billie Dove (born May 14 1903 Helen Kane ( August 4 1903, some sources indicate 1904 – September 26 1966) was an American popular Singer, best known Joan Crawford (born Lucille Fay LeSueur; ( March 23, 1905 - May 10, 1977) Crawford was signed to a motion picture Leatrice Joy ( November 7, 1893 – May 13, 1985)was an American film Actress best known for her career in the early Edith Norma Shearer (August 10 1900 - June 12 1983 was an Academy Award&ndashwinning Canadian-American actress. Laura La Plante (born Laura La Plant on November 1, 1904 in St Norma Talmadge ( May 26, 1893 &ndash December 24, 1957) was one of the greatest film stars of the silent era Clara Gordon Bow ( July 29, 1905 &ndash September 27 1965) was an American Actress and Sex symbol, who rose to fame Louise Brooks ( November 14, 1906 &ndash August 8, 1985) was an American Dancer, model, Showgirl Colleen Moore, born Kathleen Morrison ( August 19 1900 – January 25 1988) was an American Film actress
Cosmetics
The flapper look required 'heavy makeup' in comparison to what had been acceptable. Cosmetics in the 1920s were characterized by Bee-stung lips, kohl-rimmed eyes and bright cheeks Flappers tended to wear 'kiss proof' lipstick. Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments oils waxes and emollients that applies color and texture to the lips. With the invention of the metal lipstick container as well as compact mirrors bee stung lips came into vogue. A mirror is an object with a surface that has good Specular reflection; that is it is smooth enough to form an Image. Dark eyes, especially Kohl-rimmed, were the style. Kohl is a mixture of Soot and other ingredients used predominantly by Middle Eastern North African Sub-Saharan African and South Asian Blush came into vogue now that it was no longer a messy application process. To blush is to display redness in one's Face; the term is usually used when the redness is a result of an emotional response which could reflect Embarrassment
Originally, pale skin was considered most attractive. A pale is a territory or Jurisdiction (possibly non-territorial under a given authority or the limits of such a jurisdiction However, tanned skin became increasingly popular after Coco Chanel donned a tan after spending too much time in the sun on holiday - it suggested a life of leisure, without the onerous need to work. Sun tanning describes a darkening of the skin (especially of fair-skinned individuals in a natural physiological response stimulated by exposure to ultraviolet (UV radiation Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel ( August 19, 1883 &ndash January 10, 1971) was a pioneering French Fashion designer Woman wanted to look fit, sporty, and, above all, healthy.
Hair and accessories
Boyish cuts were in vogue especially the Bob cut, Eton crop, and Shingle bob. BOY is a Canadian Indie pop band The band consists of vocalist and general instrumentalist Stephen Kozmeniuk, drummer Maurie Kaufmann, A " bob cut " is a short Haircut in which a weighted area is left to fall between the ears and chin The Eton crop is a type of short slicked-down blunt Crop hairstyle. The shingle bob is a short hairstyle for women introduced in 1924 Hats were still required wear and popular styles included the Newsboy cap and Cloche hat. A hat is a headcovering It may be worn for protection against the elements for religious reasons for safety or as a Fashion accessory. The newsboy cap is a casual-wear Cap similar in style to the Flat cap. The cloche hat is a fitted bell -shaped Hat that was popular during the 1920s
Jewelry usually consisted of art deco pieces, especially many layers of beaded necklaces. Art Deco was a popular international design movement from 1925 until 1939 affecting the decorative arts such as Architecture, Interior design, and Industrial Pins, rings, and brooches came into style. A brooch (also known in ancient times as a fibula, and not to be confused with broach) is a Decorative jewelry item designed to be attached to Horn-rimmed glasses were also popular. Horn-rimmed glasses are a type of Eyeglasses with frames made of horn, Tortoise shell, or plastic that simulates either material
Flappers did away with corsets and pantaloons in favor of "step-in" panties. A corset is a Garment worn to mold and shape the Torso into a desired shape for Aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or Undergarments are clothes worn under other clothes often next to the skin Undergarments are clothes worn under other clothes often next to the skin Without the old restrictive corsets, flappers wore simple bust bodices to make their chest hold still when dancing. They also wore new, softer and suppler corsets that reached to their hips, smoothing the whole frame giving women a straight up and down appearance, as opposed to the old corsets which slenderized the waist and accented the hips and bust. Without the added curves of a corset they promoted their boyish look, and soon early popular bras were sold to flatten and reduce the appearance of the bust.
Apparel
Flapper dresses were straight and loose, leaving the arms bare and dropping the waistline to the hips. The 1920s was the decade in which fashion entered the modern era Silk or rayon stockings were held up by garters. Silk is a natural Protein Fiber, some forms of which can be woven into Textiles The best-known type of silk is obtained from cocoons Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulosic Fiber. Rayon is produced from naturally occurring Polymers and therefore it is not a truly A stocking, sometimes referred to as hose is a close-fitting variously elastic garment covering the Foot and lower part of the Leg. Garters are articles of Clothing: narrow bands of fabric fastened about the leg used to keep Stockings up Skirts rose to just below the knee by 1927, allowing flashes of knee to be seen when a girl danced or walked into a breeze, although the way they danced made any long loose skirt flap up to show their knees. A skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped Garment that hangs from the Waist and covers all or part of the Legs In European culture, skirts are usually Year 1927 ( MCMXXVII) was a Common year starting on Saturday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Flappers powdered or put rouge on their knees to show them off when dancing. Popular dress styles included the Robe de style. Robe de style is a type of women's dress popular in the 20s Lanvin was a noted designer of robes de style High heels also came into vogue at the time, reaching 2 inches high.
End of the flapper era
Despite its popularity, the flapper lifestyle and look could not survive the Wall Street Crash and the following Great Depression. The Wall Street Crash of 1929, also known as the ’29 Crash, the Crash of 1929, the Great Crash of 1929, the Great Crash of October 1929 The high-spirited attitude and hedonism simply could not find a place amid the economic hardships of the 1930s. More specifically, this decade brought out a conservative reaction and a religious revival which set out to eradicate the liberal lifestyles and fashions of the 1920s. In many ways, however, the self-reliant flapper had allowed the modern woman to make herself an integral and lasting part of the Western World. The term Western world, the West or the Occident ( Latin: occidens -sunset -west as distinct from the Orient) can have multiple meanings
See also
References
- ^ Online Etymology Dictionary. For Bolesław Prus 's 1893 novel see The New Woman. The New Woman was a feminist ideal that emerged in the final decades Cosmetics in the 1920s were characterized by Bee-stung lips, kohl-rimmed eyes and bright cheeks The term Modern Girl (モダンガール modan gaaru) in 1920s Japan came to symbolize the changing Gender roles and social shifts in women's Gender roles Douglas Harper, Historian. 26 Apr. 2007.
- ^ a b Memories of Olive. assumption. edu.
- ^ Long, Bruce (editor). Taylorology: A Continuing Exploration of the Life and Death of William Desmond Taylor. Arizona State University.
External links
- Flappers on SilentLadies.com
- The Jazz Age — Flapper Culture (discusses mainly Louise Brooks)
- Slang of the 1920s
- Flappers and fashion
- About.com history
- RolledStockings.com
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