A doublet is a man's snug-fitting buttoned jacket that was worn in Western Europe from the Middle Ages through to the mid-17th century. A jacket is a type of sleeved hip - or Waist -length garment for the upper body Western Europe at its most general meaning means 'all the countries in the West of Europe ' As a means of recording the passage of Time, the 17th Century was that Century which lasted from 1601 - 1700 in the Gregorian calendar The term also refers to a formal jacket worn with highland dress, a variation of which is called an Argyll jacket or Prince Charlie jacket (or coatee). For the US politician see Charles E Stuart For "Betty Burke" see The 'Forty-Five' below
Originally it was a mere stitched and quilted lining ("doubling"), worn under a hauberk or cuirass to prevent bruising and chafing. A hauberk is a shirt of mail Armour. The term is usually used to describe a shirt reaching at least to mid-thigh and including sleeves Cuirass ( French cuirasse, Latin coriaceus, made of leather from corium, the original breastplate being of Leather) the Then, like many other originally practical items in the history of men's wear, from the late 15th century onward it became elaborated enough to be seen on its own. A similar jacket, the sherwani, is worn today in India. This article pertains to the garment For information on the tribe see Sherwani (tribe. India, officially the Republic of India (भारत गणराज्य inc-Latn Bhārat Gaṇarājya; see also other Indian languages) is a country
In the early 1580s, Sir Philip Sidney, when governor of Flushing in the Low Countries, chose to be portrayed in his doublet, but still in a gorget, as if he were caught in the act of setting aside his armour to institute a civil government. Sir Philip Sidney ( November 30, 1554 &ndash October 17, 1586) became one of the Elizabethan Age's most prominent figures A gorget originally was a steel collar designed to protect the Throat. Armour (or armor) is protective covering most commonly manufactured from metals to prevent damage from being inflicted to an individual or a vehicle through use of direct contact (See portrait at Sir Philip Sidney. Sir Philip Sidney ( November 30, 1554 &ndash October 17, 1586) became one of the Elizabethan Age's most prominent figures )
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History
Fourteenth and fifteenth centuries
Doublets of the 14th and 15th centuries were generally hip-length, sometimes, shorter, worn over the shirt and hose, with a houppelande or other form of overgown. A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body Originally an item of underwear worn exclusively by men it has become in American English a catch-all term for For contemporary styles see Pantyhose, Hosiery WalterRaleighandson A houppelande or houpelande is an outer garment, with a long full body and flaring sleeves that was worn by both men and women in Europe in the late
From the late 14th century, doublets were cut and padded to give the wearer an egg-shaped or pigeon-breasted silhouette, a fashion that gradually died out in favor of a flatter natural fit.
Later sixteenth century
Through the Tudor period, fashionable doublets remained close-fitting with tight sleeves, but acquired long skirts and elaborate surface decoration suchs as pinks (patterns of small cuts in the fabric), slashes, embroidery, and applied braid. Social and economic revolution Following the Black Death Plagues and the agricultural depression of the late 14th century population growth Sleeve ( O Eng ''slieve'' or ''slyf'', a word allied to slip, cf Embroidery is the Art or Handicraft of decorating fabric or other Materials with designs stitched in strands of thread or
In the early Elizabethan period, doublets were padded over the belly with bombast in a "pouter pigeon" or "peascod" silhouette. Romance and reality The Victorian era and the early twentieth century idealised the Elizabethan era Sleeve attachments at the shoulder were disguised by decorative wings, tabs, or piccadills, and short skirt-like peplums or piccadills covered the waist of the hose or breeches. A piccadill or pickadill is a large broad collar of Cut-work Lace that became Fashionable in the late 16th century and early 17th century For contemporary styles see Pantyhose, Hosiery WalterRaleighandson Breeches (pronounced) are an item of male Clothing covering the body from the Waist down with separate coverings for each Leg, usually stopping just below Padding gradually fell out of fashion again, and the doublet became close-fitting with a deep V-waistline.
More images:
- Edward VI in an elaborately trimmed and pinked, long-skirted late Tudor doublet under a crimson gown with hanging sleeves.
- Martin Frobisher in a peascod-bellied doublet under a buff jerkin. A jerkin is a man's short close-fitting Jacket, made usually of light-colored Leather, and without Sleeves worn over the doublet in the sixteenth
Seventeenth century
By the 17th century, doublets were short-waisted. A typical sleeve of this period was full and slashed to show the shirt beneath; a later style was full and paned or slashed to just below the elbow and snug below. Decorative ribbon points were pulled through eyelets on the breeches and the waist of the doublet to keep the breeches in place, and were tied in elaborate bows. A ribbon or riband is a thin band of flexible material typically Cloth but also Plastic or sometimes Metal, used primarily for binding and tying
The doublet fell permanently out of fashion in the mid-17th century when Louis XIV of France and Charles II of England established a court costume for men consisting of a long coat, a waistcoat, a cravat, a wig, and breeches—the ancestor of the modern suit. Early years Birth and ancestry Louis XIV was born in the Château de Saint-Germain-en-Laye on September 5 1638 and bore the Heir apparent Charles II (Charles Stuart 29 May 1630 – 6 February 1685 was the King of England, Scotland, and Ireland. A coat is a long garment worn by both men and women for warmth or Fashion. A waistcoat (sometimes called a wescot, Vest or a vestee in Canada and the US) is a sleeveless upper-body Garment The cravat is a neckband the forerunner of the modern tailored Necktie and Bow tie. A wig is a head of Hair made from horse-hair human hair wool feathers buffalo hair or synthetic worn on the head for fashion or various other aesthetic and stylistic The man's suit of clothes is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth
Highland Dress
Doublet is also a term describing a type of jacket worn with formal highland dress. Scotland ( Gaelic: Alba) is a Country in northwest Europethat occupies the northern third of the island of Great Britain. This garment is similar to a mess jacket, with buttoned gauntlet cuffs, short or no skirts, and with or without lapels. A cuff is an extra layer of fabric at the lower edge of the Sleeve of a Garment covering the arms It may have a row of silver heraldic buttons on each side. Heraldry in its most general sense encompasses all matters relating to the duties and responsibilities of officers of arms. It may be worn with a lace jabot and cuff set, and a high-buttoned waistcoat. A waistcoat (sometimes called a wescot, Vest or a vestee in Canada and the US) is a sleeveless upper-body Garment It is typically made of velvet or wool, with satin lapels, and may feature epaulettes. Velvet is a type of tufted fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed with a short dense pile giving it a distinct feel Wool is the fiber derived from the specialized skin cells called follicles of animals in the Caprinae family principally sheep, but the hair of certain species Satin is a Cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back Epaulette (ˈɛpǝlɛt is a French word meaning "little shoulder" (from épaule, meaning "shoulder" The highland doublet is jacobean in style and may date to that period or earlier.
The Regulation kilt doublet is a typically black double-breasted jacket with satin peaked lapels, buttoned gauntlet cuffs, and epaulettes, similar to the Prince Charlie coatee, which it pre-dates. In Clothing, double-breasted refers to a coat, jacket or similar garment having a very wide overlap in the front and two parallel columns of Buttons Unlike the coatee, which is cut like a mess jacket, the doublet has braided "tashes" (otherwise known as Inverness skirts/flaps) at the front and back. The Regulation doublet was at one time the regulation uniform jacket of the Highland regiments, and is worn with a three-button waistcoat which may be made from the same cloth as the jacket.
The Balmoral Kilt Doublet is a double-breasted jacket traditionally made from velvet. It is usually worn with a belt and black bow tie. The bow tie is a men's Necktie popularly worn with Formal attire, such as suits or Dinner jackets It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around It may be worn for both black tie and white tie events. Black tie is a dress code for semi-formal evening events and is worn to many types of social functions White tie ( evening dress, full evening dress in the UK is the most formal evening Dress code.
The Kenmore kilt doublet is a single-breasted jacket, worn buttoned up (no lapels) and without a waistcoat. It is traditionally made from velvet and is always worn with a belt, lace jabot and cuffs. It may be worn on all formal occasions. It is named after the town of Kenmore which lies at the east of Loch Tay. Loch Tay ( Scottish Gaelic, Loch Tatha) is a freshwater Loch in the central highlands of Scotland, in the district of Perthshire
The Sheriffmuir kilt doublet is a double-breasted jacket with gauntlet cuffs and a stand collar with no lapels. It is typically worn open with a waistcoat, lace jabot and cuffs. Sheriffmuir lies between Dunblane and Stirling overlooking the Allan Water. Sheriffmuir (or Sheriff Muir) the site of the inconclusive 1715 Battle of Sheriffmuir (part of the Jacobite rising) lies on the slopes of the Dunblane ( Scottish Gaelic: Dùn Bhlàthain) is a small cathedral town and former Burgh north of Stirling in the Stirling council Stirling ( Gaelic: Sruighlea, Scots: Stirlin) is a city and former ancient Burgh in Scotland, and is at In 1715 a battle was fought here between the Jacobites under the Earl of Mar and the Government forces under the Duke of Argyll. Year 1715 ( MDCCXV) was a Common year starting on Tuesday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian calendar (or a The Mormaer or Earl of Mar was the provincial ruler of the province of Mar in north-eastern Scotland The title Duke of Argyll was created in the Peerage of Scotland in 1701 and in the Peerage of the United
See also
- 1500-1550 in fashion
- 1550-1600 in fashion
- 1600-1650 in fashion
References
- Janet Arnold: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620, Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986. (ISBN 0-89676-083-9)
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