| Dhaulagiri | |
|---|---|
 Dhaulagiri I in October 2002 |
|
| Elevation | 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) Ranked 7th |
| Location | Dhawalagiri, Nepal |
| Range | Dhaulagiri Himal |
| Prominence | 3,357 m (11,014 ft) |
| Coordinates | Coordinates: |
| First ascent | May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian team |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी) is the seventh highest mountain in the world. In topography a summit is a point on a surface which is higher in Elevation than all points immediately adjacent to The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent Mountains on Earth that are more than above Sea level. Dhawalagiri (Dhaulagiri is one of the fourteen zones of Nepal. Nepal (नेपाल) is a Landlocked country in South Asia. A mountain range is a chain of Mountains bordered by highlands or separated from other mountains by passes or valleys A geographic coordinate system enables every location on the Earth to be specified in three coordinates using mainly a spherical coordinate system. A geographic coordinate system enables every location on the Earth to be specified in three coordinates using mainly a spherical coordinate system. In Climbing, a first ascent (FA is the first modern recorded climb to reach the top of a Mountain, or the first to follow a particular Climbing route Events 1497 - Pope Alexander VI excommunicates Girolamo Savonarola. Year 1960 ( MCMLX) was a Leap year starting on Friday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Switzerland (English pronunciation; Schweiz Swiss German: Schwyz or Schwiiz Suisse Svizzera Svizra officially the Swiss Confederation Austria (Österreich ( officially the Republic of Austria (Republik Österreich A climbing route is a path by which a climber reaches the top of a Mountain, rock or ice wall A mountain is a Landform that extends above the surrounding Terrain in a limited area with a peak It forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalaya in the Dhawalagiri Zone of north central Nepal. A mountain range is a chain of Mountains bordered by highlands or separated from other mountains by passes or valleys Dhawalagiri (Dhaulagiri is one of the fourteen zones of Nepal. Nepal (नेपाल) is a Landlocked country in South Asia. It lies northwest of Pokhara, an important regional town and tourist center. Pokhara (पोखरा is a city of close to 200000 inhabitants in central Nepal located at 28 Across the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki to the east lies the Annapurna Himal, home to Annapurna I, one of the other eight-thousanders. The Gandaki River also known as the Kali Gandaki, Narayani (after confluence with Trisuli in Nepal and the Gandak in India is a tributary of the Ganga or Annapurna ( Sanskrit, Nepali, Nepal Bhasa: अन्नपूर्णा is a series of peaks in the Himalaya, a -long Massif The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent Mountains on Earth that are more than above Sea level. Dhaulagiri means "White Mountain".
Notable Features
After its discovery in 1808 by the western world, Dhaulagiri was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. Year 1808 ( MDCCCVIII) was a Leap year starting on Friday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian calendar (or a Leap year The following is a list of mountains that have been presumed at one time to be the highest mountain in the world This lasted for 30 years before Dhaulagiri's place was taken by Kangchenjunga. Kangchenjunga ( Nepali:कञ्चनजङ्घा Kanchanjaŋghā) SewaLungma ( Limbu language) is the third highest
In terms of rise above local terrain, Dhaulagiri is, in fact, almost unparalleled in the world. For example, it rises 7000m over the Kali Gandaki gorge to the southeast in about 30km of horizontal distance. The Kali Gandaki is especially dramatic since Dhaulagiri and Annapurna both stand near the river, giving a unique example of two Eight-thousanders facing each other over a deep valley. The Gandaki River also known as the Kali Gandaki, Narayani (after confluence with Trisuli in Nepal and the Gandak in India is a tributary of the Ganga or The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent Mountains on Earth that are more than above Sea level.
The South and West faces of Dhaulagiri both feature massive drops; each rises over 4000 meters from its base, and each has been the site of epic climbs (see the Timeline).
Among the subsidiary peaks in the range, Gurja Himal also boasts a large, precipitous drop on its south face.
Climbing History
Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. Events 1497 - Pope Alexander VI excommunicates Girolamo Savonarola. Year 1960 ( MCMLX) was a Leap year starting on Friday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Kurt Diemberger (born 1932 in Austria) is an accomplished Austrian Mountaineer and author of several books The expedition leader was Max Eiselin; they used the Northeast Ridge route which had been reconnoitered one year earlier by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec. Fritz Moravec ( April 27 1922 in Vienna, Austria, March 17 1997 in Vienna) was an Austrian mountaineer This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by a fixed-wing aircraft. The aircraft, a Pilatus PC-6, crashed during the approach and was later abandoned on the mountain. WikipediaWikiProject Aircraft. Please see WikipediaWikiProject Aircraft/page content for recommended layout
The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the "Normal Route" on the mountain. However ascents have been made from almost every direction.
Partial Timeline
- 1950 The peak is reconnoitered by the French, led by Maurice Herzog; however they do not see a feasible route and switch their objective to Annapurna, where they succeed in making the first ascent of an 8000 m peak. Year 1950 ( MCML) was a Common year starting on Sunday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Maurice Herzog is a French Mountaineer and sports administrator born on 15 January 1919 at Lyon France. The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent Mountains on Earth that are more than above Sea level.
- 1953-1958 Five expeditions attempt the North Face, or "Pear Buttress", route. Year 1953 ( MCMLIII) was a Common year starting on Thursday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Year 1958 ( MCMLVIII) was a Common year starting on Wednesday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar.
- 1954 J. Year 1954 ( MCMLIV) was a Common year starting on Friday (link will display full 1954 Gregorian calendar) O. M. Roberts and Sherpa Ang Nyima climb Putha Hiunchuli (the first successful major summit ascent in the range). For other uses of the word Sherpa see Sherpa (disambiguation.
- 1959 An Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec makes the first attempt on the Northeast Ridge, which will become the first ascent route the following year. The year 1959 ( MCMLIX) was a Common year starting on Thursday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Fritz Moravec ( April 27 1922 in Vienna, Austria, March 17 1997 in Vienna) was an Austrian mountaineer
- 1960 The first ascent, detailed above. Year 1960 ( MCMLX) was a Leap year starting on Friday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar.
- 1969 Americans, led by Boyd Everett, attempt the Southeast Ridge; seven team members, including Everett, are killed. Year 1969 ( MCMLXIX) was a Common year starting on Wednesday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar.
- 1970 The second ascent of Dhaulagiri, via the first-ascent route, by a Japanese expedition led by Tokufu Ohta and Shoji Imanari. Year 1970 ( MCMLXX) was a Common year starting on Thursday (link shows full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Tetsuji Kawada and Lhakpa Tenzing reach the summit on October 20. [1]
- 1973 An American team led by James Morrissey makes the third ascent of Dhaulagiri, via the first ascent route (Northeast Ridge). Year 1973 ( MCMLXXIII) was a Common year starting on Monday (link will display full calendar of the 1973 Gregorian calendar. Summit team: John Roskelley, Louis Reichardt, Nawang Samden.
- 1975 A Japanese team led by Takashi Amemiya attempts the Southwest Ridge (also known as the South Pillar). Year 1975 ( MCMLXXV) was a Common year starting on Wednesday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar. Six people are killed in an avalanche.
- 1976 An Italian expedition makes the fourth ascent of the peak. Year 1976 ( MCMLXXVI) was a Leap year starting on Thursday (link will display full calendar of the Gregorian calendar.
- 1977 An international team led by Reinhold Messner attempts the South Face. Also 1977 (album by Ash. Year 1977 ( MCMLXXVII) was a Common year starting on Saturday (link displays
- 1978, Spring: Amemiya returns with an expedition which puts five members on the summit via the Southwest Ridge; this is the first ascent not to use the Northeast Ridge. Year 1978 ( MCMLXXVIII) was a Common year starting on Sunday (link displays the 1978 Gregorian calendar) One team member is killed during the ascent.
- 1978, Autumn: Seiko Tanaka of Japan leads an expedition which successfully climbs the very difficult Southeast Ridge. Year 1978 ( MCMLXXVIII) was a Common year starting on Sunday (link displays the 1978 Gregorian calendar) Four team members are killed during the ascent. Also, a French team attempts the Southwest Buttress (also called the South Buttress), but reaches only 7200m.
- 1979 A Japanese expedition climbs Dhaulagiri II via the east ridge and Dhaulagiri V via the south ridge. Year 1979 ( MCMLXXIX) was a Common year starting on Monday (link displays the 1979 Gregorian calendar) They place camps on the summits of both peaks, and members of the expedition make traverses along the 4 km (2. 4 mi) intervening ridge (which is everywhere above 7,150 m) in both directions. This expedition was also notable for being led by a woman, Michiko Takahashi.
- 1981 A Yugoslavian team reach 7,950 m after putting up the first route on the true South Face of the mountain, on the right side, connecting with the Southeast Ridge. Year 1981 ( MCMLXXXI) was a Common year starting on Thursday (link displays the 1981 They climbed in alpine style, but suffered four days of open bivouacs and six days without food before returning. Also, Hironobu Kamuro of Japan reaches the summit alone, via the normal route.
- 1984 Three members of the Czechoslovakian expedition (J. Year 1984 ( MCMLXXXIV) was a Leap year starting on Sunday (link displays the 1984 Gregorian calendar) Simon, K. Jakes, J. Stejskal) reached the summit via the monumental west face of the mountain. J. Simon died during the descent.
- 1985 A Polish expedition including the famed Jerzy Kukuczka climbs Dhaulagiri, via the standard route, in winter: they reach the summit on January 21. Year 1985 ( MCMLXXXV) was a Common year starting on Tuesday (link displays 1985 Gregorian calendar) Jerzy Kukuczka ( March 24 1948 – October 24 1989) born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude
- 1986 A mostly Polish expedition puts up the second South Face route, on the left side of the face, connecting with the Southwest Ridge route. Year 1986 ( MCMLXXXVI) was a Common year starting on Wednesday (link displays 1986 Gregorian calendar) They go above 7500 m but do not reach the summit.
- 1990 Dhaulagiri becomes the first mountain higher than 8000 m to be climbed by a Lithuanian. Year 1990 ( MCMXC) was a Common year starting on Monday (link displays the 1990 Gregorian calendar) The legendary alpinist Dainius Makauskas disappears while coming back from the top.
- 1993 A Russian-British team puts up the Direct North Face Route. Year 1993 ( MCMXCIII) was a Common year starting on Friday (link will display full 1993 Gregorian calendar)
- 1998 On May 16, Chantal Mauduit, an accomplished French climber, dies in an avalanche while attempting Dhaulagiri. Year 1998 ( MCMXCVIII) was a Common year starting on Thursday (link will display full 1998 Gregorian calendar) Events 1204 - Baldwin IX Count of Flanders is crowned as the first Emperor of the Latin Empire. Chantal Mauduit was a noted female French alpinist. Born on 24 March 1964 in Paris she arrived in the French Alps at age five and started climbing at the age of 15
- 1999 On October 24 Ginette Harrison, an accomplished British climber, dies in an avalanche while attempting Dhaulagiri. Year 1999 ( MCMXCIX) was a Common year starting on Friday (link will display full 1999 Gregorian calendar) Events 69 - Second Battle of Bedriacum, forces under Antonius Primus the commander of the Danube armies loyal to Vespasian, defeat Ginette Harrison ( 28 February 1958 - 24 October 1999) was a professional climber of British origin Days later, the Slovenian Tomaz Humar climbs the huge, steep South Face solo, but does not reach the true summit of the peak. Tomaž Humar (born February 18 1969 in Ljubljana) is a Slovenian mountaineer.
Other peaks in the Dhaulagiri Himal
The Dhaulagiri Himal contains the following named peaks over 7,000 m (22,966 ft)[2]
| World Rank† |
Mountain | Height (m) | Height (ft) | Coordinates | Prominence (m) | First ascent |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 7 | Dhaulagiri I | 8,167 | 26,795 | 3,357 | 1960 | |
| 30 | Dhaulagiri II | 7,751 | 25,430 | 2,396 | 1971 | |
| Dhaulagiri III | 7,715 | 25,311 | 135 | 1973 | ||
| Dhaulagiri IV | 7,661 | 25,135 | 469 | 1969 | ||
| Dhaulagiri V | 7,618 | 24,992 | 340 | 1975 | ||
| 72 | Churen Himal (Main) | 7,385 | 24,229 | 600 | unknown‡ | |
| Churen Himal (East) | 7,371 | 24,229 | 150 | 1970 | ||
| Churen Himal (West) | 7,371 | 24,183 | 70 | 1970 | ||
| Dhaulagiri VI | 7,268 | 23,845 | 485 | 1970 | ||
| 95 | Putha Hiunchuli | 7,246 | 23,773 | 1,151 | 1954 | |
| Gurja Himal | 7,193 | 23,599 | 500 | 1969 |
† In this list, only peaks above 7,200 m with more than 500 m (1,640 ft) of topographic prominence are ranked. The following is a list of the world's 100+ highest mountains per height Above sea level, all of which are located in Asia The following is a list of the world's 100+ highest mountains per height Above sea level, all of which are located in Asia
‡ The status of the three peaks of Churen Himal is unclear, and sources differ on their heights. [2][3][4] The coordinates, heights and prominence values above are derived from the Finnmap. [4] The first ascent data is from Neate[2], but it is unclear if the first ascent of Churen Himal East was actually an ascent of the highest of the three peaks, as Neate lists Churen Himal Central as a 7,320 m subpeak of Churen Himal East.
Most of these peaks lie along one high east-west ridge, lying to the west-northwest of Dhaulagiri I and separated from it by a deep col (the French col). In order from west to east, they are: Putha Hiunchuli, Churen Himal, D VI, D IV, D V, D III, D II. Gurja Himal lies south of Dhaulagiri VI, away from the main ridge.
Footnotes
- ^ American Alpine Journal, 1971, p. The American Alpine Journal 438.
- ^ a b c Jill Neate, High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7,000 Metre Peaks, Mountaineers Books, 1990, ISBN 0-89886-238-8
- ^ H. Adams Carter, "Classification of the Himalaya," American Alpine Journal, 1985.
- ^ a b Finnmap (topographic map) of Dhaulagiri Himal
References
- Koichiro Ohmori, Over the Himalaya. Cloudcap/The Mountaineers, 1994.
- American Alpine Journal, 1974, 1976, 1977, 1979, 1986, 1987, 1994, 1999, 2000.
- Himalayan Index
External links
- Dhaulagiri on Peakware
- Dhaulagiri on summitpost.org (Detailed description of trekking and of first ascent)
- Himalayan Index
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