Crinoline was originally a stiff fabric with a weft of horse-hair and a warp of cotton or linen thread. A textile is a flexible material comprised of a network of natural or artificial Fibres often referred to as thread or Yarn. WEFT Champaign 901FM is a Community radio station in Champaign Illinois, founded in 1981 and owned by Prairie Air Inc Horsehair refers to hair taken from the Mane or tail of Horses It has various uses including Brushes and the bows of musical instruments In Weaving, the warp is the set of lengthwise Yarns through which the Weft is woven Cotton is a soft staple Fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant ( Gossypium sp Linen is a Textile made from the Fibers of the Flax plant Linum usitatissimum. This article is about the fiber product For the type of joke see Shaggy dog story. The fabric first appeared around 1830, but by 1850 the word had come to mean a stiffened petticoat or rigid skirt-shaped structure of steel designed to support the skirts of a woman’s dress into the required shape. A petticoat or underskirt is an article of Clothing for Women; specifically an Undergarment to be worn under a Skirt, dress or A dress (also frock, gown) is a garment consisting of a Skirt with an attached Bodice or with a matching bodice giving the effect of a one-piece Steel is an Alloy consisting mostly of Iron, with a Carbon content between 0 A dress (also frock, gown) is a garment consisting of a Skirt with an attached Bodice or with a matching bodice giving the effect of a one-piece In form and function it is very similar to the earlier farthingale. Farthingale is a term applied to any of several structures used under Western European women's Clothing in the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
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Origin of the word
The name 'crinoline' was invented by one of the fabric's manufacturers, who combined the Latin words crinis (meaning hair) and linum (meaning flax). A textile is a flexible material comprised of a network of natural or artificial Fibres often referred to as thread or Yarn. Latin ( lingua Latīna, laˈtiːna is an Italic language, historically spoken in Latium and Ancient Rome. Hair is a keratinised protein filament that grows through the epidermis from follicles deep within the Dermis. Flax (also known as common flax or linseed) (binomial name Linum usitatissimum) is a member of the genus Linum An alternative origin for the word is sometimes given: the combination of the French words crin (specifically meaning horse-hair) and lin (again, meaning flax). French ( français,) is a Romance language spoken around the world by 118 million people as a native language and by about 180 to 260 million people
The history of the crinoline
The crinoline was not the first accessory designed to support the wearer's skirts in the correct shape; the farthingale in its various forms was worn from the late fifteenth century through the early seventeenth century, and panniers in the eighteenth century. A dress (also frock, gown) is a garment consisting of a Skirt with an attached Bodice or with a matching bodice giving the effect of a one-piece Farthingale is a term applied to any of several structures used under Western European women's Clothing in the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries As a means of recording the passage of Time, the 17th Century was that Century which lasted from 1601 - 1700 in the Gregorian calendar Panniers or side hoops are women's Undergarments worn in the Eighteenth century to extend the width of the skirts at the side while leaving The 18th century lasted from 1701 to 1800 in the Gregorian calendar, in accordance with the Anno Domini / Common Era numbering system However, these very formal and elaborate styles were only worn at royal courts and in the highest levels of society. A society is a Population of Humans characterized by patterns of relationships between individuals that share a distinctive Culture and Institutions
After the French Revolution, French fashion turned against the elaborate styles favoured by royalty, the court, and the aristocracy. The French Revolution (1789–1799 was a period of political and social upheaval in the History of France, during which the French governmental structure previously an Fashion refers to styles of dress (but can also include cuisine literature art architecture and general comportment that are popular in a culture at any given time A royal family is the extended family of a monarch. Generally the head of a royal family is a king or queen regnant Aristocracy is a form of Government, where rule is established through an internal struggle over who has the most status and influence over society and internal relations As Parisian fashion was very influential, most western European countries adopted the same styles. Paris (ˈpærɨs in English; in French) is the Capital of France and the country's largest city
Under the prevailing neoclassical influence, women’s fashions had adopted a simple style based on the simple draped garments of Ancient Greece and the togas of ancient Rome. Neoclassicism (sometimes rendered as Neo-Classicism or Neo-classicism) is the name given to quite distinct movements in the decorative and An Empire silhouette is created by a woman wearing a high-waisted dress gathered near or just under the bust with a long loose Skirt, which skims the body The term ancient Greece refers to the period of Greek history lasting from the Greek Dark Ages ca This article is about the aviation term for the Roman garment see Toga. Skirts were straight and slender, and worn with very few — if any — petticoats. A skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped Garment that hangs from the Waist and covers all or part of the Legs In European culture, skirts are usually A petticoat or underskirt is an article of Clothing for Women; specifically an Undergarment to be worn under a Skirt, dress or
However, the silhouette did not remain that way for long, and skirt hems began to widen to give a cone shape. In the 1810s, gores began to be used in skirts again, and skirts grew wider in the 1820s. Events and Trends End of the Napoleonic Wars in Europe (1803 - 1815 A gore is a segment of a three-dimensional shape fabricated from a two- Dimensional material Events and trends Nationalistic independence helped reshape the world during this decade Greece gains independence from the Ottoman Empire The width of these skirts was sometimes supported by a small bustle. A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s These were not always sufficient, and so extra petticoats were worn to help.
The first 'crinolines' were petticoats starched for extra stiffness, or made out of the new crinoline fabric, and they often had ruffles to support the skirts to the desired width. A textile is a flexible material comprised of a network of natural or artificial Fibres often referred to as thread or Yarn. However, dress fabrics were heavy but not stiff enough to support their own weight, which tended to collapse the petticoats out of shape. Extra rigidity was added to petticoats through rings of cord or braid running around the hem. In the 1830s, women started to wear petticoats with hoops of whalebone or cane around the hem. Events and trends Electromagnetic induction discovered by Michael Faraday. A hoop skirt or hoopskirt is a women's Undergarment worn in various periods to hold the Skirt extended into a fashionable shape Baleen or whalebone is the means by which Baleen whales feed These whales do not have Teeth, but instead have rows of baleen plates in A cane is a long straight wooden stick generally of Bamboo, Malacca ( Rattan) or some similar plant mainly used as a support such as a Walking stick
The first hoop skirt in US is patent no. 4,584 from 1846, of David Hough, jr.
U. S. patent no. 20,681 from 1858 of I. R J, Mann, was the first latticework, of strings and hoops
In 1858, the American W. S. Thomson greatly facilitated the development of the cage crinoline by developing an eyelet fastener to connect the steel crinoline hoops with the vertical tapes descending from a band around the wearer’s waist. Steel is an Alloy consisting mostly of Iron, with a Carbon content between 0 The invention was patented in the United States (patent US21581), France (patent FR41193) and Britain (patent GB1204/1859). The United States of America —commonly referred to as the This article is about the country For a topic outline on this subject see List of basic France topics. The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom, the UK or Britain,is a Sovereign state located This facilitated the fashionable silhouette's development from a cone shape to a dome. It was not an entirely original idea; Thompson was probably inspired by the open cage or frame style of farthingales and panniers. Prior art (also known as or State of the art, which also has other meanings in most systems of Patent law constitutes all Information that
The cage crinoline was adopted with enthusiasm: the numerous petticoats, even the stiffened or hooped ones, were heavy, bulky and generally uncomfortable. It was light — it only required one or two petticoats worn over the top to prevent the steel bands appearing as ridges in the skirt — and freed the wearer's legs from tangling petticoats.
Unlike the farthingale and panniers, the crinoline was worn by women of every social class. Social class refers to the hierarchical distinctions (or stratification) between individuals or groups in Societies or Cultures. The wider circulation of magazines and newspapers spread news of the new fashion, also fueling desire for it, and mass production made it affordable. Magazines, periodicals or serials are Publications generally published on a regular schedule containing a variety of articles, generally A newspaper is a written Publication containing News, information and Advertising, usually printed on low-cost paper called Newsprint.
Problems with the crinoline
The crinoline was the subject of much ridicule and satire, particularly in Punch magazine. Punch was a British weekly Magazine of Humour and Satire published from 1841 to 1992 and from 1996 to 2002 Dress reformers did not like it either — they seized upon the cage aspect of the crinoline and claimed that it effectively imprisoned women. During the middle and late '''Victorian''' period, various reformers proposed designed and wore clothing supposedly more rational and comfortable than the fashions of the time Given that the crinoline did eventually have a maximum diameter of up to 180 centimetres (six feet), it is easy to imagine difficulties in getting through doors, in and out of carriages, and the general problems of moving in such a large structure. However, while the crinoline needed to have a degree of rigidity, it also had a degree of flexibility. A particular kind of steel, known as spring steel or watch-spring steel, enabled the hoops to be temporarily pressed out of shape. Steel is an Alloy consisting mostly of Iron, with a Carbon content between 0 Spring steel is a low alloy Medium carbon steel with a very high Yield strength.
The second problem was the potential impropriety of the crinoline. Its lightness was a curse as well as a blessing, as a gust of wind or a knock could set it swinging and reveal the wearer's legs. Even worse, if she tripped or was knocked over, the crinoline would hold her skirts up.
The third problem was the pressure, but tight stiff corset spread the pressure.
Sitting down could be a problem if the wearer failed to spread her skirts out properly as the entire hoop contraption would fly up in her face. This embarrassing but humorous tendency is often depicted in comedies of the era.
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The greatest problem with the crinoline, though, was that in some situations it was dangerous — because of its size, the wearer was often not aware of where its edges were. It was only inconvenient and annoying when a maid’s crinoline knocked a vase off a table or upset a cup, but for factory girls, there was the risk of crinolines getting caught in machinery and dragging them to be mutilated or crushed to death. Crinolines also burnt easily, partly because air circulated freely underneath them and partly because the fashionable dress fabrics, silk and cotton, were highly flammable.
The crinoline's decline
The crinoline had grown to its maximum dimensions by 1860. However, as the fashionable silhouette never remains the same for long, the huge skirts began to fall from favour. Around 1864, the shape of the crinoline began to change. Rather than being dome-shaped, the front and sides began to contract, leaving volume only at the back. The kind of crinoline that supported this style was sometimes known as a crinolette. The cage structure was still attached around the waist and extended down to the ground, but only extended down the back of the wearer’s legs. The crinolette itself was quickly superseded by the bustle, which was sufficient for supporting the drapery and train at the back of the skirt. A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s
The crinoline today
Crinolines are still worn today. They are usually part of a formal outfit, such as an evening gown or a wedding dress. A wedding dress or wedding gown is Clothing worn by a Bride during a Wedding ceremony The volume of the skirt is not as great as during the Victorian era, so modern crinolines are most often constructed of several layers of stiff net, with flounces to extend the skirt. In Sewing and Dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, Lace or Ribbon tightly gathered If there is a hoop in the crinoline, it will probably be made of plastic or nylon, which are low in cost, lightweight and flexible. Overview Nylon is a Thermoplastic silky material first used commercially in a nylon- Bristled Toothbrush (1938 followed more famously by
With the recent trend towards lavish weddings and grandiose bridal attire, the crinoline has started making a comeback. Manufacturers such as White Clover are updating the crinoline and designing-out its historical shortcomings by using modern material such as Velcro, elastic and Spandex.
For her first solo collection, fashion designer Vivienne Westwood looked to the crinoline for inspiration. Dame Vivienne Westwood, DBE, RDI, (born 8 April, 1941) is an English Fashion designer largely responsible for bringing The collection, titled Mini Crini, featured shorter crinoline skirts with more flexible plastic hoops.
See also
References
- Costume in Detail 1730 - 1930, Nancy Bradfield (ISBN 1-85882-038-3)
- Handbook of Nineteenth Century Costume, C. A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s Farthingale is a term applied to any of several structures used under Western European women's Clothing in the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Panniers or side hoops are women's Undergarments worn in the Eighteenth century to extend the width of the skirts at the side while leaving A petticoat or underskirt is an article of Clothing for Women; specifically an Undergarment to be worn under a Skirt, dress or 1850s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by an increase in the width of women's Skirts supported by Crinolines or 1860s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on Crinolines and hoops and Willett Cunnington and Phillis Cunnington (ISBN 0-571-04703-3)
- Fashion in Underwear, Elizabeth Ewing (ISBN 0-7134-0857-X)
- Victorians Unbuttoned, Sarah Levitt (ISBN 0-04-391013-0)
- Corsets and Crinolines, Norah Waugh (ISBN 0-7134-5699-X)
External links
- Corsets and Crinoline. Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories. Victoria and Albert Museum. The Victoria and Albert Museum (often abbreviated as the V&A) in London is the world's largest museum of decorative arts and design housing a permanent collection Retrieved on 2007-08-12. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 1099 - First Crusade: Battle of Ascalon - Crusaders under the command of Godfrey of Bouillon defeat Fatimid
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