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Commandaria (or Commanderia; Greek: Κουμανδαρία) is an amber-coloured sweet dessert wine made in the Commandaria region of Cyprus on the foothills of the Troodos mountains. Greek (el ελληνική γλώσσα or simply el ελληνικά — "Hellenic" is an Indo-European language, spoken today by 15-22 million people mainly Dessert wines (or pudding wines BrE) are sweet Wines typically served with Dessert, such as Sauternes and Tokaji Cyprus (Κύπρος transliterated: Kýpros,; Kıbrıs officially the Republic of Cyprus (Κυπριακή Δημοκρατία Kypriakī́ Dīmokratía Troodos is the biggest Mountain range of Cyprus, located in the center of the island Commandaria is made from sun-dried grapes of the varieties Xynisteri and Mavro. Xynisteri (also spelled xynistery, xinisteri; Greek: ξυνιστέρι) is an indigenous white Grape grown on Cyprus Mavro (μαύρο meaning "black" is an indigenous red Grape cultivated on the island of Cyprus. While often a fortified wine, through its production method it often reaches high alcohol levels, around 15%, already before fortification. Fortified wine is Wine to which alcohol (usually Brandy) has been added It represents an ancient wine style documented in Cyprus back to 800 BC and has the distinction of being the world's oldest named wine still in production, with the name Commandaria dating back to the crusades in the 12th century. The Crusades were a series of military campaigns of a religious character waged by much of Christian Europe against external and internal opponents

Along with Mavrodaphne, it is used as Altar wine in the Orthodox Church. Mavrodafni (also spelled Mavrodaphne, Greek: Μαυροδάφνη Maurodaphnē is both a black Wine Grape indigenous to the Achaia Sacramental wine or Altar wine is Wine prepared for use in Christian Liturgy as part of the celebration of the Eucharist or the The term Orthodox Christianity may refer to The Eastern Orthodox Church: the Eastern Christian churches of Byzantine

Contents

History

The wine has a rich history, said to date back to the time of the ancient Greeks, where it was a popular drink at festivals celebrating the goddess Aphrodite. The term ancient Greece refers to the period of Greek history lasting from the Greek Dark Ages ca A dried grape wine from Cyprus was first known to be described in 800 BC by the Greek poet Hesiod and was known as the Cypriot Manna. Hesiod ( Greek: Hesiodos) was an early Greek Poet and Rhapsode, who presumably lived around 700 BCE [1][2]

Commandaria by KEO
Commandaria by KEO

In the 12th century, during the crusades, Richard the Lionheart is said to have enjoyed it greatly at his wedding in Cyprus and to have pronounced it "the wine of kings and the king of wines. Richard I (8 September 1157 &ndash 6 April 1199 was King of England from 6 July 1189 until his death " Near the end of the century he sold the island to the Knights Templar, who then sold it to Guy de Lusignan, but kept a large feudal estate close to Limassol to themselves. The Poor Fellow-Soldiers of Christ and of the Temple of Solomon (Pauperes commilitones Christi Templique Solomonici commonly known as the Knights Templar or the Order Guy of Lusignan, Guy of Jerusalem or Guy of Cyprus (c 1150 or 1159/1160 &ndash Nicosia, July 18, 1194) was a French This estate was referred to as "La Grande Commanderie". The word Commanderie referred to the military headquarters whilst Grande helped distinguish it from two smaller such command posts on the island, one close to Paphos (Phoenix) and another near Kyrenia (Templos). Commandry ( British English) or commandery ( American English) was the smallest division of the European Landed estate or manor Paphos (Paphos is usually written Paphos or Paphus in English, ( Ancient Greek:; Modern Greek Πάφος Páfos; Latin For the village in Greece which see Keryneia Greece. Kyrenia (Keryneia (ΚερύνειαGirne is a town noted for its historic This area under the control of the Knights Templar (and subsequently the Knights Hospitaller) became known as Commandaria. The Knights Hospitaller (also known as the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St [3] When the knights began producing large quantities of the wine for export to Europe's royal courts and for supplying pilgrims en route to the holy lands, the wine assumed the name of the region. Thus it has the distinction of being the world's oldest named wine still in production. [4][5]

Although today it is produced and marketed under the name Commandaria, it has been referred to with several similar names and spellings in the past. In 1863, Thomas George Shaw in his book Wine, the vine, and the cellar refers to this wine as Commanderi[6] whilst in 1879, Samuel Baker refers to it as Commanderia. Sir Samuel White Baker, KCB, FRS, FRGS (b 8 June 1821 - † 30 December, 1893) was a British . [7] In 1833 Cyrus Redding in his book A history and description of modern wines makes reference to the wine of the Commandery. [8]

Legend has it that in the 13th century Philip Augustus of France held the first ever wine tasting competition. Philip II Augustus (Philippe Auguste ( 21 August[[ 165]] &ndash 14 July 1223) was the King of France from 1180 until his death The event, branded The Battle of the Wines (fr. The Battle of the Wines ( fr La Bataille des Vins) sometimes called "The Battle of the Blends" was a notable poem written by Henry d'Andeli in 1224 and La Bataille des Vins), was recorded in a notable French poem written by Henry d'Andeli in 1224. Henry d'Andeli was a 13th century Norman poet notable for his works Lai d'Aristote and La Bataille des Vins (English Battle of the Wines) [9] The competition which included wines from all over Europe and France, was won by a wine from Cyprus widely believed to be Commandaria. [10] The Commandery region itself fell into the control of his descendent Philip IV in 1307 after suppression of the Knights Templar.

Another legend has it an Ottoman sultan invaded the island just to acquire Commandaria. And the grapes used to make this wine were the same grapes exported to Portugal that eventually became famous as the source of port wine. Port wine (also known as Vinho do Porto, Oporto, Porto, and often simply Port) is a Portuguese, Fortified [11]

Production

Mavro grapes used in the production of Commandaria.
Mavro grapes used in the production of Commandaria.

Commandaria is made exclusively from two types of indigenous Cyprus grapes: Xynisteri and Mavro. Xynisteri (also spelled xynistery, xinisteri; Greek: ξυνιστέρι) is an indigenous white Grape grown on Cyprus Mavro (μαύρο meaning "black" is an indigenous red Grape cultivated on the island of Cyprus. The grapes are left to overripe on the vine and when sugar content reaches acceptable levels (corresponding to high must weight) they are harvested. Must weight is a measure of the amount of Sugar in Grape juice ( Must) and hence indicates the amount of Alcohol that could be produced More specifically, Xynisteri is picked when at around 12 degrees Baumé (°Bé) and Mavro at 15-16 °Bé. The Baumé scale is a pair of Hydrometer scales developed by French pharmacist Antoine Baumé in 1768 to measure Density of various liquids The grapes are then laid out in the sun to further increase the sugar density through evaporation. When the must weight reaches 19 to 23 °Bé the juice is extracted thorough crushing and pressing. [12] Fermentation takes place in reservoirs and will arrest naturally due to the high levels of alcohol achieved at around 15%. The above process has to take place within the confines of 14 designated villages that lie in the Commandaria Region (see below). Commandaria, by law is aged for at least four years in Oak Barrels but this can take place outside the above designated area within Cyprus under strict control and under the conditions laid down in Cypriot legislation. [13]

Once fermentation has been completed, at a minimum alcohol level of 10% (which is often exceeded), the alcoholic strength of Commandaria may be increased by the addition of pure 95% grape alcohol or a wine distillate of at least 70% alcohol. However, after this addition, the wine's actual alcohol content may not exceed 20%, while its total potential alcohol (including its sugar content) must be at least 22. Must weight is a measure of the amount of Sugar in Grape juice ( Must) and hence indicates the amount of Alcohol that could be produced 5%. [14] Thus, Commandaria may be a fortified wine, but fortification is not mandatory.

Xynisteri grapes.
Xynisteri grapes. Xynisteri (also spelled xynistery, xinisteri; Greek: ξυνιστέρι) is an indigenous white Grape grown on Cyprus

The origins of the production method are not definite. In his poem Works and Days, written in the 7th century BC, Hesiod, writes:

“ Forget not next the ripen'd Grapes to lay, Ten Nights in Air, nor take them in by Day; Five more remember, e're the Wine is made, To let them ly, to mellow in the Shade; And in the sixth briskly yourself employ, To cask the Gift of Bacchus, Sire of Joy. Works and Days (in Ancient Greek / Erga kaí Hemérai, which sometimes goes by the Latin name Opera et Dies, as in the OCT) Hesiod ( Greek: Hesiodos) was an early Greek Poet and Rhapsode, who presumably lived around 700 BCE "[15] ”

In his account Samuel Baker describes the production in 1879

“ . . . the commanderia grapes are collected and spread upon the flat mud-plastered roofs of the native houses, and are exposed for several days, until they show symptoms of shrivelling in the skin, and the stalks have partially dried: they are then pressed……" ”

Interestingly he claims that the evolution of this method was more out of necessity than choice. . …

“ "It has been imagined by some travellers that the grapes are purposely dried before pressing; on the other hand, I have been assured by the inhabitants that their only reason for heaping and exposing their crop upon the house-tops is the danger of leaving it to ripen in the vineyard. None of the plots are fenced, and before the grapes are sufficiently ripe for pressing they are stolen in large quantities, or destroyed by cattle, goats, mules, and every stray animal that is attracted to the fields…. "[16] ”

Commandaria is produced both by the large wine industries (KEO, ETKO, LOEL and SODAP) and by small local producers of the Commandaria appellation zone (see below). KEO plc ( Greek: Κυπριακή Εταιρία Οίνων, Cyprus Wine Company is the largest beverage company on the island of Cyprus.

Data recorded by Samuel Baker in his book Cyprus - How I saw it in 1879 reveal that in the late 19th century Cyprus had an annual production of about 300,000 okes, equivalent to about 385,000 litres (data reflects only duty-paid production). Sir Samuel White Baker, KCB, FRS, FRGS (b 8 June 1821 - † 30 December, 1893) was a British The oka, okka, or oke ( Ottoman Turkish اوقه was an Ottoman measure of Mass, equal to 400 dirhems (Ottoman drams Of this, Cyprus exported 180,103 okes from Limassol Port, of which the vast majority went to Austria (155,000 okes valued at UK£2,075). Limassol New Port Although a title held by Famagusta Port for centuries Limassol Port has now become the principal seaport in Cyprus. Austria (Österreich ( officially the Republic of Austria (Republik Österreich [17]

Official figures released by Cyprus’ Vines Products Commission show that there is a general increasing trend in the volumes produced. Much of Commandaria production is still targeted for export. [18]

1878 1879 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
Total Production, (in kilograms of grapes processed) 150,000[19] 385,000[20] 253,495 155,925 209,250 564,179 449,290
Total Exports (in litres) 200,000[20] 228,369 210,953 189,384 189,236 82,728

Authentication

Map of SW Cyprus outlining the Commandaria region
Map of SW Cyprus outlining the Commandaria region

Currently Commandaria holds a protected designation of origin (PDO) within the European Union,[21] the United States[22] and Canada. The European Union ( EU) is a political and economic union of twenty-seven member states, located primarily in The United States of America —commonly referred to as the Country to "Dominion of Canada" or "Canadian Federation" or anything else please read the Talk Page [23][24] By Cypriot legislation passed on March 2, 1990, it is only produced in a collection of 14 neighbouring villages: Ayios Yeorgios, Ayios Constantinos, Ayios Mamas, Ayios Pavlos, Apsiou, Yerasa, Doros, Zoopiyi, Kalo Chorio, Kapilio, Lania, Louvaras, Monagri and Sylikou. Ayios Mamas is a small village within Commandaria region in Cyprus. Kalo Chorio (Greek Καλό Χωριό is a village located 21 kilometers north of Limassol Louvaras is a village in the Troodos Mountains of Cyprus. The village is 28 kilometers north of Limassol. The designated area has assumed the name of the Commandaria Region and is located on the south facing slopes of the Troodos mountains at an altitude of 500-900m within the Limassol District. Troodos is the biggest Mountain range of Cyprus, located in the center of the island Limassol District is one of the six Districts of Cyprus. Its main town is Limassol. Only grapes from vineyards that have been planted for at least 4 years are allowed. Vine training must follow the goblet method and watering is prohibited. The grape harvest may only commence after the vine products commission of Cyprus has given the green light, based on the average sugar content of the grapes. Xinisteri grapes must demonstrate a sugar content of 212 g/L whilst Mavro can only qualify with a reading of 258 g/L and above. The sugar concentration is then raised by laying the grapes in the sun, usually for 7-10 days, to a strict window of 390 to 450g/L. [25]

In February 2006, the Wine Products Association of Cyprus selected an official Commandaria wine glass, manufactured by Riedel, an Austrian wine glass company. Riedel (pronounced "Rhee-dl" is a manufacturer of high-quality wine glasses and related glass products based in Kufstein, Austria. [26]

See also

References

  1. ^ (1981) The Quality of Foods and Beverages: Chemistry and Technology, ed. The Cypriot wine industry ranks 37th in the world in terms of total production quantity (37500 tonnes Mavro (μαύρο meaning "black" is an indigenous red Grape cultivated on the island of Cyprus. Xynisteri (also spelled xynistery, xinisteri; Greek: ξυνιστέρι) is an indigenous white Grape grown on Cyprus George E. Inglett & George Charalambous, Academic Press Inc. . ISBN 0121691012.  
  2. ^ Kambas, Michele. "Cypriots thought to be first Mediterranean winemakers", Kathimerini, Reuters, May 21, 2005. Retrieved on 2007-04-03. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 1043 - Edward the Confessor is crowned King of England.  
  3. ^ Brewster, D. (1830). The Edinburgh encyclopaedia (Volume VII, page 538) (PDF). William Blackwood.
  4. ^ Levin, David. "The Wines of Aphrodite's Isle", Wine Business Monthly, Wine Communications Group, November 2000. Retrieved on 2007-04-02. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 68 - Galba, Governor of Hispania, names himself legatus senatus populique Romani, breaking the line of  
  5. ^ Campbell Mackay, Jill. "On the wine trail with Jill Campbell Mackay", Cyprus Mail, Sunday, March 5, 2006. Cyprus Mail is a Cypriot English-language Newspaper. It is published daily (except Mondays and a number of articles are available online Retrieved on 2007-04-02. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 68 - Galba, Governor of Hispania, names himself legatus senatus populique Romani, breaking the line of  
  6. ^ Shaw, Thomas George. "Wine, the vine, and the cellar", Longman, 1863, pp.  315. Retrieved on 2007-02-20. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 1472 - Orkney and Shetland are left by Norway to Scotland, due to a Dowry payment  
  7. ^ Samuel W. Baker (1879). Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879. Project Gutenberg (Etext edition, 2003), 120.  
  8. ^ Redding, Cyrus. "A history and description of modern wines", Whittaker Treacher & Arnot, 1833, pp.  263. Retrieved on 2007-02-20. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 1472 - Orkney and Shetland are left by Norway to Scotland, due to a Dowry payment  
  9. ^ Henri, d'Andeli; (verse 15) (1224). La Bataille des Vins (French). Retrieved on 2007-04-03. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 1043 - Edward the Confessor is crowned King of England.
  10. ^ Wine, the Last 1,000 Years. h2g2. h2g2 is a collaborative online encyclopedia project engaged in the construction of in its own words "an unconventional guide to life the universe and everything" BBC (May 21, 2002). Events 878 - Syracuse Italy is captured by the Muslim sultan of Sicily. See also 2002 (disambiguation Year 2002 ( MMII) was a Common year starting on Tuesday of the Gregorian calendar.
  11. ^ Matus, Victorino. "Selling Cyprus", The Daily Standard, News Corporation, 04/24/2002. Retrieved on 2007-08-10. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 612 BC - Killing of Sinsharishkun, King of Assyrian Empire  
  12. ^ Commandaria Production Details. LOEL website. Retrieved on 2007-01-27. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 98 - Trajan becomes Roman Emperor after the death of Nerva.
  13. ^ Negotiation results on Wine (page 6 negotiation position No 29) (PDF). European Commission. Retrieved on 2007-03-30. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 240 BC - 1st recorded Perihelion passage of Halley's Comet.
  14. ^ "Commandaria". Oxford Companion to Wine (Third Edition). The Oxford Companion to Wine is a book in the series of Oxford Companions published by Oxford University Press. (2006). Ed. Jancis Robinson. Jancis Mary Robinson OBE, MW (born in Cumbria on April 22 1950) is a British Wine Critic, journalist Oxford: Oxford University Press. 190. ISBN 0-19-860990-6.  
  15. ^ Hesiod; Translated from the Greek by Mr. Hesiod ( Greek: Hesiodos) was an early Greek Poet and Rhapsode, who presumably lived around 700 BCE Cooke (MDCCXXVIII). Works and Days, Book 2 (verse 301-15). N. Blandford. Retrieved on 2007-06-20. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 451 - Battle of Chalons: Flavius Aetius ' defeats Attila the Hun.
  16. ^ Samuel White Baker,. Cyprus As I Saw It in 1879. ISBN 1-84637-912-1.  
  17. ^ Samuel W. Baker (1879). Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879. Project Gutenberg (Etext edition, 2003), 120.  
  18. ^ Ioannou, Yiannis. "Επιστροφή στην κουμανδαρία (Return to Commandaria)", Simerini, May 8, 2006. For a Greek newspaper based in Patras, see Simerini (Patras Simerini (Greek word for today) is a Greek language independently Retrieved on 2007-06-20. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 451 - Battle of Chalons: Flavius Aetius ' defeats Attila the Hun. (Greek) 
  19. ^ Note: converted from figures given in okes (from Samuel Baker reference)
  20. ^ a b Note: does not include non taxed production, converted from figures given in okes (from Samuel Baker reference)
  21. ^ "COMMISSION REGULATION (EC) No 1429/2004" (PDF) (9 August 2004). The oka, okka, or oke ( Ottoman Turkish اوقه was an Ottoman measure of Mass, equal to 400 dirhems (Ottoman drams The oka, okka, or oke ( Ottoman Turkish اوقه was an Ottoman measure of Mass, equal to 400 dirhems (Ottoman drams Official Journal of the European Union.  
  22. ^ "Agreement between the European Community and the United States of America on trade in wine" (PDF) (24/3/2006). Official journal of the European Union.  
  23. ^ "Trademarks Act" (PDF) (2004-11-12). Canada Gazette 138 (50): 3639.  
  24. ^ Diogenous, Katya. "Official patent for Commandaria", Cyprus Mail, April 16, 2004. Cyprus Mail is a Cypriot English-language Newspaper. It is published daily (except Mondays and a number of articles are available online Retrieved on 2007-01-27. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 98 - Trajan becomes Roman Emperor after the death of Nerva.  
  25. ^ "Από τον Ριχάρδο στην Ονομασία Προέλευσης (From Richard the Lionheart to DOC)", Politis Newspaper, March 8, 2004. Politis ( Greek: Πολίτης meaning "Citizen" is a daily Greek-language Newspaper published in Cyprus. Retrieved on 2007-03-30. Year 2007 ( MMVII) was a Common year starting on Monday of the Gregorian calendar in the 21st century. Events 240 BC - 1st recorded Perihelion passage of Halley's Comet. (Greek) 
  26. ^ "Old wine in a new glass", Cyprus Mail, March 26, 2006. Cyprus Mail is a Cypriot English-language Newspaper. It is published daily (except Mondays and a number of articles are available online Events 1026 - Pope John XIX crowns Conrad II as Holy Roman Emperor. Year 2006 ( MMVI) was a Common year starting on Sunday of the Gregorian calendar.  
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