Clean climbing is a style of rock climbing that avoids damage to the rock by eschewing the drilling of bolts and the hammering of pitons. Rock climbing is a Sport in which participants climb up or across natural rock formations or man-made rock walls with the goal of reaching the In Climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock usually consisting of a glued in or Expansion bolt. This article is about the rock climbing tool There is a pair of mountains known as the Piton Mountains. The style became practical with the invention of clean protection: nuts in the 1930s and spring loaded camming devices in the 1970s. To make Climbing as safe as possible most climbers use protection to prevent injury to themselves and others In Rock climbing, a nut (or chock or chockstone) is a metal wedge threaded on a wire used for protection by wedging it into a crack The 1930s were described as an abrupt shift to more radical and conservative lifestyles as countries were struggling to find a solution to the Great Depression. A spring-loaded camming device (also SLCD, cam or friend) is a piece of Rock climbing or Mountaineering protection This article is about the Decade 1970-1979 For the Year 1970 see 1970. The 1970s also saw the introduction of the Leave No Trace concept, which, among similar ethics for other outdoor activities, stipulates that climbers should follow these clean climbing notions. This article is about the Decade 1970-1979 For the Year 1970 see 1970. Leave No Trace is a set of principles for participation in outdoor Recreation that seeks to minimize the impact on the Natural environment.
Clean climbing is the preferred style of climbing in most parts of the United Kingdom where it is more commonly known as traditional climbing (trad); British climbers tolerate bolts and pitons on only a few cliffs. The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom, the UK or Britain,is a Sovereign state located Traditional climbing, or Trad climbing, is a style of Climbing that emphasizesthe skills necessary for establishing routes in an exploratory fashion In other parts of the world it co-exists with sport climbing. Sport climbing is a style of Rock climbing that relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock especially bolts for protection.
Clean climbers can carry and place protection by hand, removing them just as easily and cleanly.
Pitons and bolts are rarely used (almost exclusively in aid climbing) due to the damage they cause to the rock. This ethic has evolved such that on most modern climbs, any bolts and pitons installed are left in place (known as "fixed") for all future parties to use, in order to prevent multiple damaging placements.
Clean climbing differs from Sport Climbing, a popular form of climbing in many parts of Europe and the United States (as well as other countries), in that protection for Sport Climbing is provided entirely by fixed bolts, and clean gear is rarely used. Sport Climbing typically involves shorter routes (usually 100' in height or less) focusing on overhung, strenuous movements, and does not require the considerable skill of placing and removing clean protective gear.
Some routes are partially bolt protected and partially gear protected. These are most commonly referred to as "mixed protection" routes.
The debate between Traditional, or Trad Climbers, and Sport Climbers continues to this day over what the acceptable usage of bolts for protection is. Most Traditional climbers believe that bolts should not be used on any route where clean protection is possible, in order to preserve the rock. Some sport climbers believe that all routes should be bolted completely so that gear placement skills are not necessary to attempt the climb.
The general ethic is very dependent upon the area in question and varies widely by region. Generally speaking, the traditional ethic holds in most areas, and bolts are not used for protection unless there is no other option.
Left to traditional clean climbers, major UK climbing areas - for example Malham Cove - could have been climbed and still remain clear of expansion bolts. Malham Cove is a natural Limestone formation near Malham, North Yorkshire, England. Despite this, bolting was permitted by the BMC on this Site of Special Scientific Interest Reference: Peter Livesey Climber and Hillwalker magazine Article: http://groups.msn.com/SafetyInformationforMountainClients/retrobolts.msnw
A Site of Special Scientific Interest or SSSI is a Conservation designation denoting a Protected area in the United Kingdom.Dapyx Software network: MP3 Explorer | Ebook Manager | Zenithic