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Expatriate Americans Mr. and Mrs. Isaac Newton Phelps-Stokes in the easy, tailored outdoor fashions of 1897
Expatriate Americans Mr. and Mrs. Isaac Newton Phelps-Stokes in the easy, tailored outdoor fashions of 1897
1897 advertisement showing woman with unskirted garments for bicycle riding
1897 advertisement showing woman with unskirted garments for bicycle riding

Fashion in the 1890s in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by long elegant lines, tall collars, and the rise of sportswear. Isaac Newton Phelps Stokes (b 1867 d 1944 was an American architect Sportswear (or Active attire) is Clothing, including Footwear, worn for Sport or exercise

Contents

Women's fashions

Fashionable women's clothing styles shed some of the extravagances of previous decades (so that skirts were neither crinolined as in the 1850s, nor protrudingly bustled in back as in the late 1860s and mid-1880s, nor tight as in the late 1870s), but corseting continued unmitigated, or even slightly increased in severity. 1850s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by an increase in the width of women's Skirts supported by Crinolines or 1860s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on Crinolines and hoops and Fashion in the 1880s in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by the return of the Bustle. 1870s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s A corset is a Garment worn to mold and shape the Torso into a desired shape for Aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or Early 1890s dresses consisted of a tight bodice with the skirt gathered at the waist and falling more naturally over the hips and undergarments than in previous years. The 1890s were sometimes referred to as the " Mauve Decade" because William Henry Perkin 's aniline dye allowed the widespread use of that A bodice is an article of Clothing for women covering the body from the neck to the waist A skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped Garment that hangs from the Waist and covers all or part of the Legs In European culture, skirts are usually

The mid 1890s introduced leg o'mutton sleeves, which grew in size each year until they disappeared in about 1896. Sleeve ( O Eng ''slieve'' or ''slyf'', a word allied to slip, cf Year 1896 ( MDCCCXCVI) was a Leap year starting on Wednesday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian Calendar (or a Leap year During the same period of the mid '90s, skirts took on an A-line silhouette that was almost bell-like. The late 1890s returned to the tighter sleeves often with small puffs or ruffles capping the shoulder but fitted to the wrist. Skirts took on a trumpet shape, fitting more closely over the hip and flaring just above the knee. Corsets in the 1890s helped define the hourglass figure as immortalized by artist Charles Dana Gibson. Charles Dana Gibson ( September 14, 1867 &ndash December 23, 1944) was an American graphic artist noted for his creation of the " In the very late 1890s the corset elongated, giving the women a slight S-curve silhouette that would be popular well into the Edwardian era. A sigmoid function is a Mathematical function that produces a sigmoid curve &mdash a curve having an "S" shape Class and society Socially the Edwardian era was a period during which the British Class system was very rigid

Sportswear and tailored fashions

Changing attitudes about acceptable activities for women also made sportswear popular for women, with such notable examples as the bicycling dress and the tennis dress.

Unfussy, tailored clothes were worn for outdoor activities and traveling. A tailor is a person whose occupation is to sew and scissor menswear style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them The shirtwaist, a costume with a bodice or waist tailored like a man's shirt with a high collar, was adopted for informal daywear and became the uniform of working women. For other meanings of Waist see Waist (disambiguation Waist is a common term for the Bodice of a dress A bodice is an article of Clothing for women covering the body from the neck to the waist Walking suits featured ankle-length skirts with matching jackets. The man's suit of clothes is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth The notion of "rational dress" for women's health was a widely discussed topic in 1891, which led to the development of sports dress. This included ample skirts with a belted blouse for hockey. In addition, cycling became very popular and led to the development of "cycling costumes", which were shorter skirts or "bloomers" which were Turkish trouser style outfits. By the 1890s, women bicyclists increasingly wore bloomers in public and in the company of men as well as other women. Bloomers seem to have been more commonly worn in Paris than in England or the United States and became quite popular and fashionable. Swimwear was also developed, usually made of navy blue with a long tunic over full knickers.

Influence of aesthetic dress

The 1890s in both Europe and North America saw growing acceptance of artistic or aesthetic dress as mainstream fashion, especially in the adoption of the uncorseted tea gown for at-home wear. The 1890s were sometimes referred to as the " Mauve Decade" because William Henry Perkin 's aniline dye allowed the widespread use of that The United States of America —commonly referred to as the The Artistic Dress movement and its successor Aesthetic Dress, were Fashion trends in nineteenth century Clothing. A tea gown or tea-gown is a woman's at-home Dress of the late 19th to mid-20th centuries characterized by unstructured lines light fabrics and frothy or feminine In US in this period, Dress, the Jenness Miller Magazine (1887-1898) [1], reported that tea gowns were being worn outside the home for the first time in fashionable summer resorts.

Style Gallery 1890-96

1 - 1890-92

2 - 1892

3 - 1892-93

4 - 1894

5- 1895

6 - 1896

7-1896
  1. Praskovia Tchaokovskaia wears a high-necked day gown with puffed elbow-length sleeves and a fabric belt or sash, Russia, 1890-92.
  2. Day dresses of 1892 have low waists and high necklines. Sleeves have a high, gathered sleeve-head and are fitted to the lower arm.
  3. Evening gowns of 1892-3 feature short or elbow-length full, puffed sleeves and floral trimmings.
  4. Walking suits of 1894 show shorter skirts and matching jackets with leg o' mutton sleeves.
  5. Punch Cartoon of 1895 shows a fashionable bicycle suit.
  6. Photograph of woman wearing a summer dress with elbow-length puffed sleeves and a high neck, New Jersey, 1895. New Jersey ( is a state in the Mid-Atlantic and Northeastern regions of the United States. The tight belt falls near the natural waistline.
  7. Natalie Barney in 1896

Style Gallery 1897-99

1 - 1897

2 - 1897

3 - 1897

4 - 1898

5 - 1898

6 - 1899

7 - 1899

8 - 1899
  1. Madame Faydou wears her hair in a knot on top of her head. Her black gown and her daughter's grey dress (probably mourning attire) have fashionable leg o' mutton sleeves, 1897.
  2. Catherine Vlasto wears a white gown with puffed elbow-length sleeves and ribbon bows. Her hair is parted in the center and poufed casually at her temples, 1897.
  3. 1897 fashion plate shows an idealized form of the fashionable figure. The jacket has an asymmetrical closure and new, smaller sleeve puffs.
  4. Bathing costumes of 1898 have nautical details such as sailor collars.
  5. Gown of 1898 shows a short, wide puff at the shoulder over a long, tight sleeve.
  6. 1899 fashion plate shows the narrow, gored skirt and more natural shoulder of the turn of the century (as well as the results of "S-bend" corseting).
  7. Tea Gown of 1899 shows "Watteau back" and frothy trim.
  8. Two women in Watteau-backed tea gowns with high sashed waists, 1899.

Caricatures

Cigar box art

Cartoon mocking sleeve designs suggesting that new styles could be modeled on cricket bats, hot air balloons, or tennis rackets.

  1. 1890s cigar box satirizes the liberating effects of wearing bloomers.

Men's fashion

Early 1890s fashion includes gray coat with covered buttons and matching waistcoat, dark trousers, short turnover shirt collar, and floppy bow tie. The short hair and pointed beard are typical. Portait of Paul Wayland Bartlett by Pearce, 1890
Early 1890s fashion includes gray coat with covered buttons and matching waistcoat, dark trousers, short turnover shirt collar, and floppy bow tie. The short hair and pointed beard are typical. Portait of Paul Wayland Bartlett by Pearce, 1890

The overall silhouette of the 1890s was long, lean, and athletic. Paul Wayland Bartlett ( January 24, 1865 – 1925 was an American sculptor. Charles Sprague Pearce ( October 13, 1851 - May 18, 1914) American artist was born at Boston Massachusetts. Hair was generally worn short, often with a pointed beard and generous moustache.

Coats, jackets, and trousers

By the 1890s, the sack coat (UK lounge coat) was fast replacing the frock coat for most informal and semi-formal occasions. A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by knee-length skirts all around the base popular during the Victorian and Edwardian period Three-piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat (U. A waistcoat (sometimes called a wescot, Vest or a vestee in Canada and the US) is a sleeveless upper-body Garment S. vest) and trousers were worn, [were matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers. Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across

Contrasting waistcoats were popular, and could be made with or without collars and lapels. The usual style was single-breasted.

The blazer, a navy blue or brightly-colored or striped flannel coat cut like a sack coat with patch pockets and brass buttons, was worn for sports, sailing, and other casual activities. A blazer is a type of Jacket, often Double-breasted, and sometimes Single-breasted, worn as Smart casual clothing Flannel is a soft woven Fabric, of various fineness It usually doesn't have a nap, and instead gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn it

The Norfolk jacket remained fashionable for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits. A Norfolk jacket is a loose belted Single-breasted jacket with box pleats on the back (and sometimes front now with a belt or half-belt It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back, with a fabric belt. Worn with matching breeches or (U. Breeches (pronounced) are an item of male Clothing covering the body from the Waist down with separate coverings for each Leg, usually stopping just below S. knickerbockers, it became the Norfolk suit, suitable for bicycling or golf with knee-length stockings and low shoes, or for hunting with sturdy boots or shoes with leather gaiters. Knickerbockers were a men's or boys' baggy knee Trousers particularly popular in Gaiters are items worn on the lower leg and used primarily as Personal protective equipment; similar items used primarily for display are Spats.

The cutaway morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere.

The most formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark or light waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar.

The less formal dinner jacket or tuxedo, which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings, now generally had a single button. Black tie is a dress code for semi-formal evening events and is worn to many types of social functions Dinner jackets were appropriate formal wear when "dressing for dinner" at home or at a men's club. The dinner jacket was worn with a white shirt and a dark tie.

Knee-length topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and calf-length overcoats were worn in winter. The term Overcoat is a type of long coat intended to be worn as the outermost garment

Shirts and neckties

Shirt collars were turned over or pressed into "wings", and became taller through the decade. In Clothing, a collar is the part of a Shirt, Dress, coat or Blouse that fastens around or frames the Neck. Dress shirts had stiff fronts, sometimes decorated with shirt studs and buttoned up the back. Shirt studs are small usually Metal objects used to fasten the front of pleated or stiff-front Shirts in lieu of Buttons. Striped shirts were popular for informal occasions.

The usual necktie was a four-in-hand or an Ascot tie, made up as a neckband with wide wings attached and worn with a stickpin, but the 1890s also saw the return of the bow tie (in various proportions) for day dress. The necktie (or tie) is a long piece of cloth worn around the neck resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with wide pointed wings traditionally made of pale gray patterned silk The bow tie is a men's Necktie popularly worn with Formal attire, such as suits or Dinner jackets It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around

Accessories

As earlier in the century, top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; bowlers and soft felt hats in a variety of shapes were worn for more casual occasions, and flat straw boaters were worn for yachting and at the seashore. For the item of clothing see Top hat. For the fictional TUGS character see Top Hat (TUGS. The bowler hat, also known as a derby (US or billycock, is a Hard Felt Hat with a rounded crown originally created in 1849 for Edward A boater (also basher, skimmer, katie, or Sennit hat) is a kind of hat associated with sailing and boating

Style gallery

1 - c. 1890

2 - c. 1890

3-1890s

4 - 1895

5 - 1896

6 - 1898
  1. Painter John Singer Sargent in formal evening dress, c. 1890.
  2. Another portrait of Sargent, in day dress: dark coat and waiscoat, dark red ascot, and tall collar, c. 1890. This picture shows the long, lean silhouette in fashion at this time.
  3. Oscar Wilde wears a frock coat with a pocket square, 1890s. A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by knee-length skirts all around the base popular during the Victorian and Edwardian period A handkerchief (also called handkercher or hanky) is a form of a Kerchief, typically a square of fabric that can be carried in the Pocket
  4. Frederick Law Olmsted wears a tan topcoat over a gray suit, 1895.
  5. George du Maurier wears a double-breasted waistcoat with a shawl collar under his sack coat, with grey trousers. He wears square-toed shoes with spats, 1896. Spats are a type of Shoe Accessory worn in the late 19th and early 20th century
  6. Country clothes: James Tissot wears breeches and high boots with a reddish collared waistcoat and a brown coat. James Jacques Joseph Tissot ( October 15, 1836 &ndash August 8, 1902) was a French painter. Even with this casual outdoor costume, he wears a tie, 1898.


Children's fashion

Girls, 1896

Girls' fashions, 1897

Working-class fashions

Townswoman and fisherwoman

Rector and drinker

Notes

  1. Reforming Fashion 1850-1914

References

External links

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