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Paris fashion, 1883-85.
Paris fashion, 1883-85.

Fashion in the 1880s in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by the return of the bustle. A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s The long, lean line of the 1870s was replaced by a full, curvy silhouette with gradually widening shoulders. 1870s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s Fashionable waists were low and tiny below a full, low bust supported by a corset. A corset is a Garment worn to mold and shape the Torso into a desired shape for Aesthetic or medical purposes (either for the duration of wearing it or The Rational Dress Society was founded in 1881 in reaction to the extremes of fashionable corsetry. During the middle and late '''Victorian''' period, various reformers proposed designed and wore clothing supposedly more rational and comfortable than the fashions of the time Year 1881 ( MDCCCLXXXI) was a Common year starting on Saturday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian calendar (or a Common


Contents

Women's fashion

The fashionable corseted figure of 1883. Hair is swept up to the top of the head, and the front hair is frizzled over the forehead.
The fashionable corseted figure of 1883. Hair is swept up to the top of the head, and the front hair is frizzled over the forehead.
Princess-line walking dress (left) and hunting costume (right) from La Mode Illstrée, 1880.
Princess-line walking dress (left) and hunting costume (right) from La Mode Illstrée, 1880.
Front and back views of a traveling coat, c. 1880-81
Front and back views of a traveling coat, c. 1880-81

Overview

As in the previous decade, emphasis remained on the back of the skirt, with fullness gradually rising from behind the knees to just below the waist. The fullness over the buttocks was balanced by a fuller, lower bosom, achieved by rigid corseting, creating an S-shaped silhouette.

Skirts were looped, draped, or tied up in various ways, and worn over matching or contrasting underskirts. The polonaise was a revival style based on a fashion of the 1780s, with a fitted, cutaway overdress caught up and draped over an underskirt. A polonaise (originally robe à la Polonaise) is a woman's garment of the later 1770s and 1780s or a similar revival style of the 1880s, consisting Long, jacket-like fitted bodices called basques were also popular for daywear. A basque (also known as a Torsolette) is an item of Women 's historical apparel.

Evening gowns were sleeveless and low-necked (except for matrons), and were worn with long over the elbow or shoulder length gloves of fine kid leather or suede.

Choker necklaces and jewelled collars were fashionable under the influence of Alexandra, Princess of Wales, who wore this fashion to disguise a scar on her neck. choker is a close-fitting Necklace, worn high on the Neck. This type of Jewellery can consist of one or more bands circling the neck A necklace is an article of Jewellery which is worn around the Neck. In jewelry a collar is an ornament for the neck Collar is an older word for Necklace, and is usually reserved today for a necklace that lies flat to the Alexandra of Denmark (Alexandra Carolina Marie Charlotte Louise Julia 1 December 1844 – 20 November 1925 was Queen Consort to Edward VII of the United Kingdom

Underwear

The bustle returned to fashion and reached its greatest proportions ca. A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s 1886-1888, extending almost straight out from the back waist to support a profusion of drapery, frills, swags, and ribbons. The fashionable corset created a low, full bust with little separation of the breasts.

The usual undergarment was a combination, a camisole with attached knee- or calf-length drawers, worn under the corset, bustle, and petticoat. Undergarments are clothes worn under other clothes often next to the skin A camisole or cami is a Woman 's Undergarment which covers the top part of the body Woolen combinations were recommended for health, especially when engaging in fashionable sports such as riding or tennis.

Outerwear

Riding habits had become a "uniform" of matching jacket and skirt worn with a high-collared shirt or chemisette, with a top hat and veil. A riding habit is women's Clothing for Horseback riding. Since the mid-17th century a formal habit for riding Sidesaddle usually consisted of A Chemisette (from French "little Chemise " is an article of women's Clothing worn to fill in the front and neckline of any garment For the item of clothing see Top hat. For the fictional TUGS character see Top Hat (TUGS. They were worn without bustles, but the cut of the jacket followed the silhouette of the day.

In contrast, hunting costumes were far more fashionably styled, with draped ankle-length skirts worn with boots or gaiters. Gaiters are items worn on the lower leg and used primarily as Personal protective equipment; similar items used primarily for display are Spats.

Tailored costumes consisting of a long jacket and skirt were worn for travel or walking; these were worn with the bustle and a small hat or bonnet. A tailor is a person whose occupation is to sew and scissor menswear style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them Travelers wore long coats like dusters to protect their clothes from dirt, rain, and soot. A duster is a light loose-fitting coat. The original dusters were full-length light-colored Canvas or Linen coats worn by horsemen

Aesthetic dress

Artistic or Aesthetic dress remained an undercurrent in Bohemian circles throughout the 1880s. The Artistic Dress movement and its successor Aesthetic Dress, were Fashion trends in nineteenth century Clothing. In reaction to the heavy drapery and rigid corseting of mainstream Paris fashion, aesthetic dress focused on beautiful fabrics made up simply, sometimes loosely fitted or with a belt at the waist. Aesthetic ideas influenced the tea gown, a frothy confection increasingly worn in the home, even to receive visitors. A tea gown or tea-gown is a woman's at-home Dress of the late 19th to mid-20th centuries characterized by unstructured lines light fabrics and frothy or feminine

Hairstyles and headgear

Hair was usally pulled back at the sides and worn in a low knot or cluster of ringlets; later hair was swept up to the top of the head. Hair is a keratinised protein filament that grows through the epidermis from follicles deep within the Dermis. Fringe or bangs remained fashionable throughout the decade, usually curled or frizzled over the forehead. A fringe (or bangs in the United States and Canada) is a shaped cutting of the front part of the Hair so that it is combed forward and hangs

Bonnets resembled hats except for their ribbons tied under the chin; both had curvy brims. A hat is a headcovering It may be worn for protection against the elements for religious reasons for safety or as a Fashion accessory.

Style gallery 1880-1884

1 - 1880

2 - 1881

3 - 1882

4 - 1882

5 - 1882

6 - 1883

7 - 1883

8 - 1884


  1. Leona Barel of New Orleans wears a long, fitted jacket with three-quarter-length striped sleeves over a matching striped skirt. A nosegay of flowers is pinned at her waist, c. 1880.
  2. A rather impracticable-looking tennis costume.
  3. Summer dresses of 1882 show Aesthetic influence in the small-scale floral prints and high neckbands with white ruffles at neck and wrist. The straw hat has a high front brim to frame the fashionable frizzled hair.
  4. August 1882 fashion plate shows the return of the bustle: the tight overdress is looped up behind.
  5. Whistler's Portrait of Lady Meux (1881-1882) shows the fashionable full bosom.
  6. Misses' Polonaise has fitted bodice with a low point in front. The front of the skirt is cutaway and the back is looped up after the fashion of 1780s. It is shown over a gored skirt with ruffles. Throughout the century, younger teenage girls ("misses" in fashion plates) wore their skirts just above their ankles.
  7. Bathing dresses of 1883 show fashionable rear fullness.
  8. The Empress of Austria in a riding habit, 1884. A riding habit is women's Clothing for Horseback riding. Since the mid-17th century a formal habit for riding Sidesaddle usually consisted of Her habit has the fashionable corseted silhouette, with a simpler skirt suited for riding, tall shirt collar, and top hat.

Style gallery 1885-1889

1 - c. 1885

2 - 1885

3 - 1886

4 - 1887

5 - 1887

5 - 1888

7 - 1888

8 - 1889


  1. Mid-1880s fashion plate shows the "back shelf" bustle. The gown is draped up at both sides and worn over a matching underskirt.
  2. Madame Paul Poirson wears the fashionable neckline of mid-decade, wide at the bust and narrower at the shoulder. Flowers trim her bodice, hair, and draped skirt, 1885.
  3. Outfit which is both strongly influenced by menswear and bustled. Hair is upswept, with bangs. Elbow-length gloves meet the shorter sleeves.
  4. Hairstyle of 1887 is swept up into a knot, with the front hair curled and frizzled over the forehead.
  5. Fashions from La Mode Illustrée show gowns made of contrasting fabrics worn with "shelf" bustles and opera-length gloves, 1887.
  6. Fashions of 1888 feature full busts, large "shelf" bustles, and wide shoulders. Gloves reach the elbow or slightly above.
  7. Eleanora Iselin wears a high-necked black satin costume trimmed with beaded passementerie, 1888. Passementerie or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings (in French passements) of applied Braid, Gold
  8. Vicomtesse De Montmorand wears an evening gown fastened in back, without a bustle, signalling the styles of the next decade. Her hair is twisted into a small knot on top of her head and is worn with a curly fringe or bangs, 1889. A fringe (or bangs in the United States and Canada) is a shaped cutting of the front part of the Hair so that it is combed forward and hangs

Atypical high-fashion

1 - second half of decade

2 - 1887
  1. The 1880s idea of practical women's attire is seen in this poster showing Annie Oakley wearing shorter skirts and a complete lack of a bustle (acceptable for poorer rural frontier women and/or paid public performers).
  2. Japanese print showing two young ladies dressed according to the latest Western fashions of time — except that the colors and designs of the fabrics are to Japanese tastes.

Men's fashion

Vanity Fair sketch of John Delacouur shows the formal evening dress of 1885.
Vanity Fair sketch of John Delacouur shows the formal evening dress of 1885.

Coats, jackets, and trousers

Three piece suits consisting of a sack coat with matching waistcoat (U. A waistcoat (sometimes called a wescot, Vest or a vestee in Canada and the US) is a sleeveless upper-body Garment S. vest) and trousers (called in the UK a "lounge suit") continued as an informal alternative to the contrasting frock coat, waistcoat and trousers. Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by knee-length skirts all around the base popular during the Victorian and Edwardian period

The cutaway morning coat was still worn for formal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere, with a dress shirt and an ascot tie. An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with wide pointed wings traditionally made of pale gray patterned silk The most formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers with a dark waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with a winged collar.

In mid-decade, a more relaxed formal coat appeared: the dinner jacket or tuxedo, which featured a shawl collar with silk or satin facings, and one or two buttons. Black tie is a dress code for semi-formal evening events and is worn to many types of social functions Dinner jackets were appropriate when "dressing for dinner" at home or at a men's club.

The Norfolk jacket was popular for shooting and rugged outdoor pursuits. A Norfolk jacket is a loose belted Single-breasted jacket with box pleats on the back (and sometimes front now with a belt or half-belt It was made of sturdy tweed or similar fabric and featured paired box pleats over the chest and back, with a fabric belt.

Full-length trousers were worn for most occasions; tweed or woollen breeches were worn for hunting and other outdoor pursuits. Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across

Knee-length topcoats, often with contrasting velvet or fur collars, and calf-length overcoats were worn in winter. The term Overcoat is a type of long coat intended to be worn as the outermost garment

By the 1880's the majority of the working class, even shepherds adopted jackets and waistcoats in fustian and corduroy with corduroy trousers, giving up their smock frocks.

Shirts and neckties

Shirt collars were turned over or pressed into "wings". In Clothing, a collar is the part of a Shirt, Dress, coat or Blouse that fastens around or frames the Neck. Dress shirts had stiff fronts, sometimes decorated with shirt studs, and buttoned up the back. Shirt studs are small usually Metal objects used to fasten the front of pleated or stiff-front Shirts in lieu of Buttons.

The usual necktie was the four-in-hand and or the newly fashionable Ascot tie, made up as a neckband with wide wings attached and worn with a stickpin. The necktie (or tie) is a long piece of cloth worn around the neck resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with wide pointed wings traditionally made of pale gray patterned silk

Narrow ribbon ties were tied in a bow, and white bowtie was correct with formal evening wear.


Accessories

As in the 1870s, top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; bowlers and soft felt hats in a variety of shapes were worn for more casual occasions, and flat straw boaters were worn for yachting and other nautical pastimes. For the item of clothing see Top hat. For the fictional TUGS character see Top Hat (TUGS. The bowler hat, also known as a derby (US or billycock, is a Hard Felt Hat with a rounded crown originally created in 1849 for Edward A boater (also basher, skimmer, katie, or Sennit hat) is a kind of hat associated with sailing and boating

Shoes of the 1880s had higher heels and a narrow toe. A shoe is an item of Footwear. Shoes may vary from a simple Flip-flop to a complex Boot.

Style gallery

1 - c. 1880

2 - c. 1880

3 - 1881

4 - 1881

5 - 1882

6 - After 1882
  1. British traveler wears a grey frock coat and matching trousers with a grey top hat, 1880. The coat has two covered buttons at the back waist.
  2. Painter John Singer Sargent wears a formally pleated Ascot tie. An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with wide pointed wings traditionally made of pale gray patterned silk His shirt collar has softly curled wings, c. 1880.
  3. Hermann von Helmholtz wears a dark coat, waistcoat, and trousers with a stiff-fronted and stiff-collared shirt, German, 1881.
  4. Theodor Mommsen wears a narrow necktie tied in a bow with his dark suit, German, 1881.
  5. Vanity Fair sketch of agricultural scientist John Bennet Lawes portrays him in walking clothes. "Sir John Lawes" redirects here Distinguish from Sir John Lawes (School His coat with a waist seam and skirts cutaway in a smooth curve is worn with matching trousers and collared waistcoat, 1882.
  6. George Etiene Cartier wears a dark frock coat, a decorative double-breasted waistcoat and, and a narrow bow tie. Montreal, after 1882.

Children's fashion

Young girls wore dresses with round collars and sashes. Fashionable dresses had dropped waists. Pinafores were worn for work and play. A pinafore (colloquially pinny in British English) is a Sleeveless garment worn as an Apron When going out, especially in the winter, girls wore lots of layers to keep warm. A warm coat was worn with kid leather gloves. A muff hand warmer was worn over the gloves, so when the girl removed her hands her gloves would keep them warm. Just like ladies, all upper-class Victorian girls wore gloves when going out. A hat or bonnet was worn as well, along with long, knee-length button-up boots or shorter boots with gaitors to give the appearance of wearing long boots.

Older boys wore knee-length breeches and jackets with round-collared shirts.

France, 1881

1882

1882

Paris, 1883

France, 1885

1885-1886

Bustled fashions for girls, 1886

1887

Russia, 1888

See also

References

External links


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