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Bustles and elaborate drapery characterize evening dresses of the early 1870s. The gentleman wears evening dress. Detail of "Too Early" by Tissot, 1873
Bustles and elaborate drapery characterize evening dresses of the early 1870s. The gentleman wears evening dress. Detail of "Too Early" by Tissot, 1873

1870s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s and 1860s. James Jacques Joseph Tissot ( October 15, 1836 &ndash August 8, 1902) was a French painter. Clothing (also called clothes, accoutrements, accouterments, or habiliments) protects the Human body from extreme Weather 1850s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by an increase in the width of women's Skirts supported by Crinolines or 1860s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on Crinolines and hoops and

Contents

Women's fashions

Overview

Day dress of the later 1870s
Day dress of the later 1870s
Countess Brownlow in artistic dress, 1879 .
Countess Brownlow in artistic dress, 1879 [1].

By 1870, fullness in the skirt had moved to the rear, where elaborate draping was held in place by tapes and supported by a bustle. A skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped Garment that hangs from the Waist and covers all or part of the Legs In European culture, skirts are usually A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress occurring predominantly between the mid- to late 1800s This fashion required an underskirt, which was heavily trimmed with pleats, rouching, and frills. Trim or trimming in Clothing and Home decorating is applied ornament such as gimp, passementerie, Ribbon, Ruffles This fashion was short-lived (though the bustle would return again in the mid-1880s), and was succeeded by a tight-fitting silhouette with fullness as low as the knees: the cuirass bodice, a form-fitting, long-waisted, boned bodice that reached below the hips, and the princess sheath dress. Fashion in the 1880s in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by the return of the Bustle. A bodice is an article of Clothing for women covering the body from the neck to the waist

Daytime dresses had high necklines that were either closed, squared, or V-shaped. Sleeves of day dresses were narrow throughout the period, with a tendency to flare slightly at the wrist early on. Women often draped overskirts to produce an apronlike effect from the front.

Evening dresses had low necklines and very short, off-the-shoulder sleeves, and were worn with short (later mid-length) gloves. A glove ( Middle English from Old English glof) is a type of Garment (and more specifically a Fashion Other characteristic fashions included a velvet ribbon tied high around the neck and trailing behind for evening (the origin of the modern choker necklace). Velvet is a type of tufted fabric in which the cut threads are very evenly distributed with a short dense pile giving it a distinct feel A ribbon or riband is a thin band of flexible material typically Cloth but also Plastic or sometimes Metal, used primarily for binding and tying choker is a close-fitting Necklace, worn high on the Neck. This type of Jewellery can consist of one or more bands circling the neck A necklace is an article of Jewellery which is worn around the Neck.


Tea gowns and artistic dress

Under the influence of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and other artistic reformers, the "anti-fashion" for Artistic dress with its "medieval" details and uncorseted lines continued through the 1870s. The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood (also known as the Pre-Raphaelites) was a group of English painters Poets, and critics founded in 1848 by The Artistic Dress movement and its successor Aesthetic Dress, were Fashion trends in nineteenth century Clothing. Newly fashionable tea gowns, an informal fashion for entertaining at home, combined Pre-Raphaelite influences with the loose sack-back styles of the eighteenth century [2]. A tea gown or tea-gown is a woman's at-home Dress of the late 19th to mid-20th centuries characterized by unstructured lines light fabrics and frothy or feminine The 18th century lasted from 1701 to 1800 in the Gregorian calendar, in accordance with the Anno Domini / Common Era numbering system

Leisure Dress

Leisure dress was becoming an important part of a women's wardrobe. Seaside dress [3] in England had its own distinct characteristics but still followed the regular fashion's of the day. Seaside dress was seen as more daring, frivolous, and eccentric, and brighter. Even though the bustle was extremely cumbersome, it was still a part of seaside fashion.

Hairstyles and headgear

In keeping with the vertical emphasis, hair was pulled back at the sides and worn in a high knot or cluster of ringlets, often with a fringe (bangs) over the forehead. Hair is a keratinised protein filament that grows through the epidermis from follicles deep within the Dermis. A fringe (or bangs in the United States and Canada) is a shaped cutting of the front part of the Hair so that it is combed forward and hangs False hair was commonly used. Bonnets were smaller to allow for the elaborately piled hairstyles and resembled hats except for their ribbons tied under the chin. A hat is a headcovering It may be worn for protection against the elements for religious reasons for safety or as a Fashion accessory. Smallish hats, some with veils, were perched on top of the head, and brimmed straw hats were worn for outdoor wear in summer. A veil is an article of clothing worn almost exclusively by women that is intended to cover some part of the head or Face.

Style gallery 1870-74

1 - 1870

2 - 1870

3 - 1871

4 - 1872-3

5 - 1874

6 - c. 1874

7 - 1874

8 - 1874

9 - 1873
  1. Walking dress of 1870 has a tiered and ruffled skirt back.
  2. 1870 fashion plate shows jacket-bodices with draped and trimmed skirts in back. Ruffles and pleated frills are characteristic trimmings of the 1870s.
  3. French day dress of 1871 features a narrow red ribbon at the low neckline and a large matching bow with streamers at the back waist.
  4. Artistic dress of the early 1870s. Portrait of Mrs. Frances Leyland by Whistler.
  5. Jennie Jerome photographed in 1874, the year of her marriage to Lord Randolph Churchill. Lady Randolph Churchill CI DStJ ( Jeanette "Jennie" Jerome) ( January 9, 1854 – June 9, 1921) Lord Randolph Henry Spencer Churchill ( 13 February 1849 – 24 January 1895) was a British Statesman. She wears a newly-fashionable bodice tailored like a man's jacket (the forerunner of the cuirasse bodice). Her tall hat-like bonnet has a pouf of veiling, and she carries a muff.
  6. Outdoor dresses of 1874 feature overskirts caught up with buckled ribbons. Jacket-bodices (very like the one worn by Jennie Jerome) have cuffs and high necklines. Small straw hats with flat crowns and long ribbons (similar to men's boaters) are worn tipped forward. A boater (also basher, skimmer, katie, or Sennit hat) is a kind of hat associated with sailing and boating
  7. Backview of a gown of 1874 shows the draping of the overskirt and the slight train on the underskirt. France.
  8. Gown of 1874 with draped overskirt and ruffled underskirt. Overskirtes are a thing of the pst

Style gallery 1874-79

1 - 1874-76

2 - 1875-6

3 - c. 1875

4 - c. 1877

5 - 1878

6 - 1878

7-1876
  1. Tight gowns with long trains of the mid-1870s are trimmed with pleated ruffles, bows, buttons, and braid, and are worn with hats with ribbon streamers.
  2. French evening gown is festooned with flowers and is worn with mid-length white gloves and a black neck ribbon. The high-knotted hairstyle is typical of the mid-1870s.
  3. Day dress of c. 1875 has a trailing overskirt and is trimmed with a profusion of ruffles and ribbons. Hair is braided into a crown high on the head.
  4. Semi-sheer gowns of c. 1877 show back fullness beginning at hip-level rather than the waist as in 1874-5. The tight, princess-line dress on the right fits smoothly to the body from the shoulders to the lower hips.
  5. Evening gown of 1878 has a long train and a squared neckline. It is worn with opera-length gloves.
  6. Jacket and skirt costume of 1878 features a long train trimmed with pleated frills and ruching. Matching ruching trims the cuffs of the sleeves.

Caricature gallery

1 - late 1870s

2 - 1871

3 - 1876

4 - 1878
  1. Cartoon "Veto" by George du Maurier from Punch, satirizing the tight dress styles of the late 1870's. George Louis Palmella Busson du Maurier ( 6 March, 1834 &ndash 8 October, 1896) was a French -born British
  2. An extreme class contrast: "Young lady of fashion, 1871" vs. "London Dairywoman".
  3. From the Danish Punch, satirizing the general fashion in 1876
  4. Cartoon by George du Maurier from Punch, May 25th 1878, satirizing both impractical women's fashions and men's formal military uniforms. George Louis Palmella Busson du Maurier ( 6 March, 1834 &ndash 8 October, 1896) was a French -born British

Men's fashion

Paris fashion of 1878 features a coat with a contrasting collar, a waistcoat decorated with a watch chain, wide Ascot tie, square-toed shoes, and a top hat.
Paris fashion of 1878 features a coat with a contrasting collar, a waistcoat decorated with a watch chain, wide Ascot tie, square-toed shoes, and a top hat.
Canadian legislator John Charles Rykert wears a narrow ribbon necktie and a collarless waistcoat. His coat has wide lapels. 1873.
Canadian legislator John Charles Rykert wears a narrow ribbon necktie and a collarless waistcoat. His coat has wide lapels. 1873.

Innovations in men's fashion of the 1870s included the acceptance of patterned or figured fabrics for shirts and the general replacement of neckties tied in bow knots with the four-in-hand and later the Ascot tie. A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body Originally an item of underwear worn exclusively by men it has become in American English a catch-all term for The necktie (or tie) is a long piece of cloth worn around the neck resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with wide pointed wings traditionally made of pale gray patterned silk

Coats and trousers

Frock coats remained fashionable, but new shorter versions arose, distinguished from the sack coat by a waist seam. A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by knee-length skirts all around the base popular during the Victorian and Edwardian period Waistcoats (U. A waistcoat (sometimes called a wescot, Vest or a vestee in Canada and the US) is a sleeveless upper-body Garment S. vests) were generally cut straight across the front and had collars and lapels, but collarless waistcoats were also worn.

Three-piece suits consisting of a high-buttoned sack coat with matching waistcoat and trousers, called ditto suits or (UK) lounge suits, grew in popularity; the sack coat might be cutaway so that only the top button could be fastened. Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across

The cutaway morning coat was still worn for informal day occasions in Europe and major cities elsewhere. Frock coats were required for more formal daytime dress. A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by knee-length skirts all around the base popular during the Victorian and Edwardian period Formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers. The coat now fastened lower on the chest and had wider lapels. A new fashion was a dark rather than white waistcoat. Evening wear was worn with a white bow tie and a shirt with the new winged collar.

Full-length trousers were worn for most occasions; tweed or woollen breeches were worn for hunting and hiking. Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across

Topcoats had wide lapels and deep cuffs, and often featured contrasting velvet collars. Furlined full-length overcoats were luxury items in the coldest climates. The term Overcoat is a type of long coat intended to be worn as the outermost garment

Shirts and neckties

The points of high upstanding shirt collars were increasingly pressed into "wings". In Clothing, a collar is the part of a Shirt, Dress, coat or Blouse that fastens around or frames the Neck.

Necktie fashions included the four-in-hand and, toward the end of the decade, the Ascot tie, a tie with wide wings and a narrow neckband, fastened with a jewel or stickpin. Ties knotted in a bow remained a conservative fashion, and a white bowtie was required with formal evening wear.

A narrow ribbon tie was an alternative for tropical climates, and was increasingly worn elsewhere, especially in the Americas.

Accessories

Top hats remained a requirement for upper class formal wear; bowlers and soft felt hats in a variety of shapes were worn for more casual occasions, and flat straw boaters were worn for yachting and other nautical pastimes. For the item of clothing see Top hat. For the fictional TUGS character see Top Hat (TUGS. The bowler hat, also known as a derby (US or billycock, is a Hard Felt Hat with a rounded crown originally created in 1849 for Edward A boater (also basher, skimmer, katie, or Sennit hat) is a kind of hat associated with sailing and boating

Style gallery

1 - 1870s

2 - 1872

3- 1872

4 - 1875

5 - 1876

6 - 1879

7 - 1879

8 - 1879

9 - 1870's

10-1870s
  1. 1870s photo of President Rutherford B. Hayes. Rutherford Birchard Hayes (October 4 1822 January 17 1893 was an American politician, lawyer, military leader and the nineteenth His coat and shawl-collared vest or waistcoat have covered buttons. Note functional buttonholes all the way up his coat lapel.
  2. Gentleman in a railway carriage wears a dust-colored coat, trousers, and collar-less waistcoat with a dark red necktie. He wears a fur-lined overcoat and tan gloves. Britain, 1872.
  3. Plate from The Gazette of Fashion shows a fur-lined overcoat (left) and double-breasted topcoat (right) with braid trim and decorative topstitching, 1872. Checked trousers were quite fashionable.
  4. Photographer Mathew Brady wears a coat with braid trim on the collar and lapels over a matching waistcoat. His turned-down collar is worn over a four-in-hand necktie. 1875.
  5. Major-General The Hon. James MacDonald is drawn by James Tissot in a slightly fitted, double-breasted topcoat with a diagonally positioned breast pocket and a contrasting collar. James Jacques Joseph Tissot ( October 15, 1836 &ndash August 8, 1902) was a French painter. In Clothing, double-breasted refers to a coat, jacket or similar garment having a very wide overlap in the front and two parallel columns of Buttons His shirt collar is pressed into flat wings and is worn with a wide, dark tie. He wears a top hat and gloves. 1876.
  6. 1879 photo of American lawman Bat Masterson wearing a three-piece suit and a bowler hat. William Barclay "Bat" Masterson ( November 26, 1853 &ndash October 25, 1921) was a figure of the American Old West The bowler hat, also known as a derby (US or billycock, is a Hard Felt Hat with a rounded crown originally created in 1849 for Edward His cutaway sack coat has a high front closure and is worn buttoned only at the top, over a vest or waistcoat cut straight across at the waist and decorated with a prominent watch chain.
  7. Vanity Fair sketch of 1879 shows Sir Albert Abdallah David Sassoon in "morning dress" (formal daywear): grey trousers, dark cutaway coat, white waistcoat, wing-collared shirt and dark tie.
  8. British statesman William Gladstone wears conservative clothing; his tall collar is still upstanding, and he wears his tie in a bow knot. 1879.

Necktie gallery

1873 portraits of members of the Legislative Assembly of Ontario illustrate the variety of fashionable neckwear (and facial hair).

Children's fashion

Infants continued to be dressed in flowing gowns, a style that continued into the early twentieth century. Gender dress changes often did not occur until a child was five or six; however, in the later decades gender dress came much sooner. Girls ages could be depicted often based on the length of their skirt. As the girls got older, they wore longer skirts. A four year old would wear her skirt at knee length; ten to twelve at mid-calf; and by sixteen, the girls dress would be ankle length. The age of a boy could often be decided based on the length and type of trouser or how similar the attire was to that of a man’s. Boys often dressed similar to adult males, as they too wore blazers and Norfolk jackets.

Much influence on the styles of children’s dress came from artist Kate Greenaway, an illustrator of children’s books. Kate Greenaway (Catherine Greenaway (London 17 March 1846 – 6 November 1901 was a Children's book Illustrator and writer She strongly depicted styles of young girls dress, as she often showed girls dressed in empire styles in her books. The idea of children’s dress being taken from books is also found is styles such as the Little Lord Fauntleroy suit which was worn by the hero of a children’s book. Fauntleroy redirects here For other uses see Fauntleroy (disambiguation.


1870 fashion plate

Summer dress with sash, 1872-73

Two year old William Lyon Mackenzie King, c. William Lyon Mackenzie King PC OM CMG ( December 17, 1874 – July 22, 1950) was a Canadian 1876

See also

References

  1. ^ For commentary on the clothes in this portrait, see Jane Ashelford, The Art of Dress
  2. ^ At Home at Tea Time: Tea Gowns for Distinction and Comfort, 1870-1920, Kent State University Museum Exhibit, April to August 1997, Anne Bissonnette, Curator
  3. ^ The Girls in Green: Women's Seaside Dress in England, 1850-1900, Deirdre Murphy, The Costume Society, Vol. The term " Victorian Fashion " refers to Fashion in Clothing in the Victorian era, or the reign of Queen Victoria (1837&ndash1901 The Artistic Dress movement and its successor Aesthetic Dress, were Fashion trends in nineteenth century Clothing. 40, 2006

External links

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