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1859 fashion plate of both men's and women's daywear, with seabathing in background. He wears the new leisure fashion, the sack coat.
1859 fashion plate of both men's and women's daywear, with seabathing in background. He wears the new leisure fashion, the sack coat.

1850s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by an increase in the width of women's skirts supported by crinolines or hoops, and the beginnings of dress reform. Clothing (also called clothes, accoutrements, accouterments, or habiliments) protects the Human body from extreme Weather A skirt is a tube- or cone-shaped Garment that hangs from the Waist and covers all or part of the Legs In European culture, skirts are usually Crinoline was originally a stiff fabric with a Weft of Horse-hair and a warp of Cotton or Linen thread. A hoop skirt or hoopskirt is a women's Undergarment worn in various periods to hold the Skirt extended into a fashionable shape During the middle and late '''Victorian''' period, various reformers proposed designed and wore clothing supposedly more rational and comfortable than the fashions of the time For men, the introduction of the sack coat as informal daywear and of outfits with matching coat, waistcoat and trousers marked the beginnings of the modern business suit. A coat is a long garment worn by both men and women for warmth or Fashion. A waistcoat (sometimes called a wescot, Vest or a vestee in Canada and the US) is a sleeveless upper-body Garment Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across The man's suit of clothes is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth

Contents

Women's Fashion

Gowns

Princess Albert de Broglie wears a blue silk gown with delicate lace and ribbon trim. Her hair is covered with a sheer frill trimmed with matching blue ribbon knots. She wears a necklace, tasseled earrings, and bracelets on each wrist.
Princess Albert de Broglie wears a blue silk gown with delicate lace and ribbon trim. Her hair is covered with a sheer frill trimmed with matching blue ribbon knots. She wears a necklace, tasseled earrings, and bracelets on each wrist.
Fashions of 1853: Flounced skirts, cape-like jackets, and heavily trimmed bonnets.
Fashions of 1853: Flounced skirts, cape-like jackets, and heavily trimmed bonnets.

In the 1850s, the domed skirts of the 1840s continued to expand. 1840s fashion in European and European-influenced Clothing is characterized by a narrow natural shoulder line following the exaggerated puffed sleeves of the later 1820s Skirts were made fuller by means of flounces (deep ruffles), usually in tiers of three, gathered tightly at the top and stiffened with horsehair braid at the bottom. In Sewing and Dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, Lace or Ribbon tightly gathered In Sewing and Dressmaking, a ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, Lace or Ribbon tightly gathered

Early in the decade, bodices of day dresses featured panels over the shoulder that were gathered into a blunt point at the slightly dropped waist. These bodices generally fastened in back by means of hooks and eyes, but a new fashion for a [jacket] bodice appeared as well, buttoned in front and worn over a chemisette. In Clothing and Fashion design, a button is a small plastic or metal disc- or knob-shaped typically round object usually attached to an article of Clothing A Chemisette (from French "little Chemise " is an article of women's Clothing worn to fill in the front and neckline of any garment Wider bell-shaped or pagoda sleeves were worn over false undersleeves or engageantes of cotton or linen, trimmed in lace, broderie anglaise, or other fancy-work. Engageantes are false Sleeves worn with women's Clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries Broderie Anglaise (French "English Embroidery" is a whitework Needlework technique incorporating features of Embroidery, Cutwork Separate small collars of lace, tatting, or chrochet-work were worn with day dresses, sometimes with a ribbon bow. This page is about a form of lace making Tatting is a technique for handcrafting a particularly durable Lace constructed by a series of Knots and loops Crochet (kroʊˈʃeɪ is a process of creating fabric from Yarn or thread using a Crochet hook.

Evening dresses were very low-necked, falling off the shoulders, and had short sleeves.

The introduction of the steel cage crinoline in 1856 provided a means for expanding the skirt still further, and flounces gradually disappeared in favor of a skirt lying more smoothly over the petticoat and hoops. Year 1856 ( MDCCCLVI) was a Leap year starting on Tuesday (link will display the full calendar of the Gregorian Calendar (or a Leap year A petticoat or underskirt is an article of Clothing for Women; specifically an Undergarment to be worn under a Skirt, dress or Pantalettes were essential under this new fashion for modesty's sake. Pantalettes are Undergarments covering the legs worn by women girls and very young boys (before they were Breeched) in the early- to mid- Nineteenth century

Fabrics

Special dress fabrics were printed à la disposition, with a small figured print over most of the fabric and an elaborate coordinating border print down one selvage. A textile is a flexible material comprised of a network of natural or artificial Fibres often referred to as thread or Yarn. In a woven fabric the selvage (or selvedge) is the uncut edge of the fabric which is on the right- and left-hand edges as it comes out of the Loom Dresses were made up so the border print decorated the flounces and parts of the bodice or sleeves. A bodice is an article of Clothing for women covering the body from the neck to the waist Sleeve ( O Eng ''slieve'' or ''slyf'', a word allied to slip, cf (See photos at [1] and [2]. )

Outerwear

Cape-like jackets were worn over the very wide skirts. A coat is a long garment worn by both men and women for warmth or Fashion. Another fashionable outer garment was an Indian shawl or one woven in Paisley, Renfrewshire in a paisley pattern in imitation of Indian styles. India, officially the Republic of India (भारत गणराज्य inc-Latn Bhārat Gaṇarājya; see also other Indian languages) is a country A shawl ( Persian شال Shāl from Sanskrit: साडी śāṭī is a simple item of Clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders upper body and arms Paisley (Pàislig is a town and former Burgh in the west- Central Lowlands of Scotland. Paisley or Paisley pattern is a droplet-shaped vegetal motif of Persian origin similar to half of the Yin yang symbol or the leaf of the Indian Hooded cloaks were also worn. A cloak is a type of loose Garment that is worn over indoor Clothing and serves the same purpose as an Overcoat &mdashit protects the wearer from the cold

Riding habits had fitted jackets with tight sleeves, worn over a collared shirt or (more often) chemisette. A riding habit is women's Clothing for Horseback riding. Since the mid-17th century a formal habit for riding Sidesaddle usually consisted of They were worn with long skirts and mannish top hats.

Hairstyles and headgear

Hair was dressed simply, in a bun or wound braid at the back, with the sides puffed out over the ears or with clusters of curls to either side in imitation of early 17th century fashions. Hair is a keratinised protein filament that grows through the epidermis from follicles deep within the Dermis. A bun is a small usually sweet Bread. Commonly they are hand-sized or smaller domed in shape with a flat bottom Deep bonnets with wide ribbon bows tied under the chin were worn outdoors.

The indoor cap became little more than a lace and ribbon frill worn on the back of the head. A cap is a form of Headgear. Caps have crowns that fit closer than Hats and have no brim or only a Visor.

Beginnings of dress reform

1851 marked the birth of the Victorian dress reform movement, when New England temperance activist Libby Miller adopted what she considered a more rational costume: loose trousers gathered at the ankles, topped by a short dress or skirt and vest. During the middle and late '''Victorian''' period, various reformers proposed designed and wore clothing supposedly more rational and comfortable than the fashions of the time History See also History of New England New England's earliest inhabitants were Algonquian -speaking Native Americans including the See also Prohibition, Teetotalism The Temperance Movement attempted to reduce the amount of Alcohol consumed within a community or society in Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across The style was promoted by editor Amelia Bloomer and was immediately christened a Bloomer suit by the press. Amelia Jenks Bloomer ( May 27, 1818 &mdash December 30, 1894) was an American Women's rights Bloomers is a word which has been applied to several types of divided women's garments for the lower body at various times Despite its practicality [3], the Bloomer suit was the subject of much ridicule in the press and had little impact on mainstream fashion.

Style gallery 1850-1855

1 - 1850s

2 - 1850

3 -1851

4 - 1851

5 - 1851

6 - 1851

7 - 1852

8 - 1853

9 - 1854
  1. The Bloomer suit, a short dress worn over full trousers gathered at the ankle, briefly adoped by dress reformers in the United States in the 1850s. The United States of America —commonly referred to as the
  2. Male outdoors attire and female riding-habit of 1850 (New York).
  3. 1851 Parisian fashion plate shows the fashionable use of fabrics printed â la disposition (with border-prints) on skirt flounces and for bodices and sleeves.
  4. Madame Moitessier wears a black off-the-shoulder evening dress with ruffles. She wears a brooch and bracelets on both wrists. France, 1851.
  5. Mrs. Coventry Patmore wears a small fancy-work collar and a ribbon at her throat. Her thick, wavy hair is parted in the center and poufed over her ears, 1851.
  6. Matilde Juva-Branca wears a dark day dress with a lace blouse or chemisette and cuffs and short leather gloves. Her hair is parted and worn in long sausage curls, 1851.
  7. Doña Josefa García Solis wears a simple green satin dress with laced short sleeves over a linen chemise or chemisette. Her lace cap is trimmed with rose-colored tassels and ribbons, and she carries an elaborate fan, 1852.
  8. Doña Amalie de Llano y Dotres, Condesa de Vilches wears a bright blue gown with a tiered skirt. The long pointed bodice is trimmed with horizontal bands of ruching over a chemise or chemisette (or an underlayer styled to look like a chemise), 1853.
  9. A reform corset from Madame Caplin. This corset was adjust to the body, not to the dress as before.

Style gallery 1855-1859

1 - 1855

2- 1856

3 - 1857

4 - 1858 Bathing!

5 - 1859

6 - 1859

7 - 1859
  1. Empress Eugenie and her Ladies in Waiting wear formal dress (despite the outdoor setting). The hair styled with ringlets or curls on the sides and a small bun in back is typical. 1855.
  2. Mme Moitessier wears a floral gown with ribbon streamers. Her lace cap is little more than a frill trimmed in red ribbons. 1856.
  3. Charlotte Cushman wears her hair parted in the center and brushed into puffs over each ear. Her gown has wide pagoda sleeves and is worn over undersleeves or engageantes. Engageantes are false Sleeves worn with women's Clothing in the 18th and 19th centuries The high neckline is set off with a white collar. American, 1857.
  4. "Going Swimming Fully Dressed" or swimsuit of 1858 is styled like a Bloomer suit (acceptable in the context of beachwear), and includes a cap to confine the hair. A swimsuit, bathing suit or swimming costume is an item of Clothing designed to be worn for Swimming.
  5. Fashion plate from Godey's Magazine, with full-blown little girl's crinoline.
  6. Countess Alexander Nikolaevitch Lamsdorff wears a day dress with ruched violet ribbon trim and an elaborate lace collar, 1859. The violet trim and black cap may indicate the later stages of mourning. Mourning is in the simplest sense synonymous with Grief over the Death of someone
  7. Jacket from Godey's Lady's Book, December 1859. Godey's Lady's Book, alternatively known as Godey's Magazine and Lady's Book, was a popular United States Magazine among Colorful, braid-trimmed Zouave jackets based on military styles became fashionable in the late 1850s and remained so well into the 1860s. Zouave was the title given to certain Infantry regiments in the French Army, normally serving in French North Africa between 1831 and 1962

Caricature gallery

The crinoline style gave wide scope to satirists, and many cartoons and comic odes to the crinoline appeared.

1 -1850

2 -1856

3 -1857
  1. "A Splendid Spread", satire on an early inflatable (air tube) version of the crinoline by George Cruikshank, from The Comic Almanack, 1850. George Cruikshank ( September 27, 1792 — February 1, 1878) was an English Caricaturist and book illustrator praised as (Crinolines did not actually come into wide use until about 1854. )
  2. Cutaway view of a flounced skirt over a crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856. Punch was a British weekly Magazine of Humour and Satire published from 1841 to 1992 and from 1996 to 2002
  3. A satirical cartoon from the July 11th 1857 issue of Harper's Weekly, contrasting the supposedly becoming styles of the time with the supposedly ugly Grecian-influenced Empire/Regency styles of an earlier generation. Harper's Weekly ( A Journal of Civilization) was an American political Magazine based in New York City. Fashion in the period 1795-1820 in European and European-influenced countries saw the final triumph of undress or informal styles over the brocades lace periwigs and powder . .

See also: http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/patterns/largeversion.asp?imagename=belles-lg.gif The Comparative Sizes of Bell(e)s

Men's fashion

John Ruskin wears a dark frock coat over lighter trousers and low-heeled shoes. He carries a soft-crowned brown hat. Detail of a portrait by John Everett Millais, 1853-54.
John Ruskin wears a dark frock coat over lighter trousers and low-heeled shoes. John Ruskin (8 February 1819 &ndash 20 January 1900 is best known for his work as an Art critic, sage writer, and Social critic, but is remembered He carries a soft-crowned brown hat. Detail of a portrait by John Everett Millais, 1853-54. Sir John Everett Millais 1st Baronet, PRA ( June 8, 1829 &ndash August 13, 1896) was an English painter

Shirts of linen or cotton featured high upstanding or turnover collars. A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body Originally an item of underwear worn exclusively by men it has become in American English a catch-all term for In Clothing, a collar is the part of a Shirt, Dress, coat or Blouse that fastens around or frames the Neck. The newly fashionable four-in-hand neckties were square or rectangular, folded into a narrow strip and tied in a bow, or folded on the diagonal and tied in a knot with the pointed ends sticking out to form "wings". The necktie (or tie) is a long piece of cloth worn around the neck resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat Heavy padded and fitted frock coats (in French redingotes), now usually single-breasted, were worn for business occasions, over waistcoats or vests with lapels and notched collars. A frock coat is a man's coat characterised by knee-length skirts all around the base popular during the Victorian and Edwardian period The redingote is a type of coat that has had several forms over time Waistcoats were still cut straight across at the waist in front in 1850, but gradually became longer; the fashion for wearing the bottom button undone for ease when sitting lead to the pointed-hemmed waistcoat later in the century.

A new style, the sack coat, loosely fitted and reaching to mid-thigh, was fashionable for leisure activities; it would gradually replace the frock coat over the next forty years and become the modern suit coat. The man's suit of clothes is a set of garments which are crafted from the same cloth

The slightly cutaway morning coat was worn for formal day occasions. The most formal evening dress remained a dark tail coat and trousers, with a white cravat; this costume was well on its way to crystallizing into the modern "white tie and tails".

Full-length trousers were worn for day. Trousers are an item of Clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across Breeches remained a requirement for formal functions at the British court (as they would be throughout the century). Breeches continued to be worn for horseback riding and other country pursuits, especially in Britain, with tall fitted boots.

Costumes consisting of a coat, waistcoat and trousers of the same fabric were a novelty of this period.

Tall top hats were worn with formal dress and grew taller on the way to the true stovepipe shape, but a variety of other hat shapes were popular. For the item of clothing see Top hat. For the fictional TUGS character see Top Hat (TUGS. Soft-crowned hats, some with wide brims, were worn for country pursuits. The bowler hat was invented in 1850 but remained a working-class accessory. The bowler hat, also known as a derby (US or billycock, is a Hard Felt Hat with a rounded crown originally created in 1849 for Edward

Style gallery

1 - c. 1850

2 - c. 1850

3 - 1856

4 - 1857

5 - 1858

6 - 1858

7 - 1858

8 - 1859
  1. Painter G.P.A. Healy wears a shirt with a round-cornered collar and a pleated front. His necktie is tied in a small bow. America, c. 1850.
  2. James Fennimore Cooper wears a standing collar with a necktie folded on the diagonal and tied into wide "wings". His coat has wide lapels and a contrasting (perhaps velvet) collar. His contrasting waistcoat has lapels. United States, c. 1850 (Cooper died in 1851). James Fenimore Cooper (September 15 1789 &ndash September 14 1851 was a prolific and popular American writer of the early 19th century
  3. Fashions of 1856 show an idealized rounded chest over a low waist. The cutaway morning coat (left) is worn with trousers trimmed with braid down the outer seam. Shirts have short straight collars and are worn with narrow neckties tied in wide bows. Half-boots have short heels. Coat sleeves are cut long, showing very little shirt cuff.
  4. 1857 fashion plate shows formal evening wear, informal day wear, top coats, and a dressing gown.
  5. Sam Houston, 1858, wears the wide-brimmed hat common on the American frontier.
  6. Artist Eugène Delacroix wears a stiff tie over a tall standing collar. His double-breasted waistcoat is cut straight across. His frock coat, waistcoat and trousers are all of different fabrics. France, 1858.
  7. Liberian politician Edward James Roye wears a frock coat with a wide collar and lapels over a waistcoat with lapels and eight buttons.
  8. Artist Henri Fantin-Latour wears a shirt with a turnover collar and a black necktie.

Caricature gallery

Vicissitudes of the Cravat compares "The Fast Man's Neckerchief in 1809" and "The Fast Man's Neck-Tie in 1859".

Children's fashion

1 - 1851

Boy in skirt — 1854

Boy in corset — 1854

2 - 1855

3 - 1858-59
  1. This young boy wears a belted tunic over pantalettes. Pantalettes are Undergarments covering the legs worn by women girls and very young boys (before they were Breeched) in the early- to mid- Nineteenth century His governess wears the modest, dark dress appropriate to her occupation. A governess is a female employee of a family who teaches children within their home
  2. Hans Haubold, Graf von Einsiedel wears a three-piece suit with rounded collar and lapel peaks, and the round, frilled open collar favored for children, 1855.
  3. Young girl wears a knee-length skirt with crinoline petticoat, 1858-59. Crinoline was originally a stiff fabric with a Weft of Horse-hair and a warp of Cotton or Linen thread.

See also

References

Notes

  1. Wool muslin dress printed à la disposition at the Museum of Costume, Bath
  2. Summer dress of fabric printed à la disposition at the Victoria and Albert Museum
  3. Eliza Ann McAuley describes wearing a Bloomer on the road to the goldfields, 1852

External links

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